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Swapped Turbo, Still Having Problems.

Blackkers

By Blackkers,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

There is no water seal in the turbo, the water runs around the core, so there's no way a turbo could leak water internally.

crack/fracture in the core?

definitely NOT saying this is the problem, but merely a possibility.

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

I'd be checking the PCV valve and associated breathers are functioning as intended. It looks like your getting excessive pressure in the crank case. If the PCV valve isn't closing under boost you'll get huge amounts of oil in the intake etc, just like your pic

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

UPDATE:

Compression test showed:

130,130,130,130,75,75

Diagnosis is broken head gasket between cylinders 5&6 causing a leak between cylinders. I bought a new motor with 83,000 kms straight from Japan. Taking delivery on Monday. I didn't want to risk opening up the motor to find broken ring landings as well; clearly this motor has had a hard life and its cheap enough to throw away.

ALSO:

I sent one of my turbo's off to Hypergear for the $880 High Flow treatment (much cheaper than at precision turbo's).

NEXT QUESTION:

At hypergear they are trying to sell me braided oil lines for the turbo for $88. Is this even necessary? I'm a bit skeptical.

I'm still driving the car just low boost and it drives okay, only problem is the BoV is messy (spits water+oil) and it blows some smoke. New engine + turbo should be in by 10-14 days roughly.

Let me know what you think about the braided oil lines.

Turns out the turbo's were fine all the time but i still want the hiflow

Edited by Blackkers
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The new highflow uses a different core to your old turbo, so to make the easiest fitment happen, just buy the flexibles and be happy. Better than trying to fit it up the old hardlines, seeing as they won't quite line up (probably) and you'll end up cursing and swearing and bending stuff and all that.

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The new highflow uses a different core to your old turbo, so to make the easiest fitment happen, just buy the flexibles and be happy. Better than trying to fit it up the old hardlines, seeing as they won't quite line up (probably) and you'll end up cursing and swearing and bending stuff and all that.

Okay thanks for that I will buy the new feed line. I remember trying to fit the original lines to the new turbo when swapping with a stocker; it was hell. I kept dropping the f**king washer off of the banjo bolts from the water feed haha I'm sure I'm not the only one who experienced that.

Next Question (thanks for being so helpful):

I have a stock turbo for sale, with a receipt from skyline spares. How much do they normally go for?

Also, will someone buy my old block? It ONLY suits a rebuild. But someone might want it to build instead of taking their car off the road for weeks to build theirs.

edit:

I'd postpone the highflow until you're completely confident you've addressed the current issue. Remember even if the compression test comes back ok, you still have a problem to fix.

Also, dont forget you may need injectors/AFM/programmable ECU and tune = $$$$

I forgot to mention I already have FMIC, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Splitfire coilpacks, Excedy HD clutch

I will need an ecu + injectors + tune + possibly fuel pump & FPR to make more power. I had the plugs gapped to 0.8 when they were out for the comp test this morning and I'll get my workshop to check how much meat is left on the clutch when they swap it to the new motor.

Will I be able to run low boost with the hi-flow turbo on the stock ecu + injectors + FP + FPR? people have said no but not even 8 psi until I save up for a tune?

Edited by Blackkers
hy_rpm Proficient

hy_rpm

Posted
Posted

Search up toshi his in Sydney aswell and can chip the skyline ecu and road or dyno tune for half the price of a nistune

You will need a new solid intake as the std rubber ones suck shut with more boost and a new fuel pump and z32afm

You might get away with the std injectors best to ask toshi as his tuned plenty of skylines and is good at what he does

Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

You will need a braided oil line as the factory hardline apparently has a restrictor in it so it won't flow enough oil for the Hypergear turbo. You can make your own braided line for pretty cheap if you want to isn't very hard

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

okay good info thanks guys. Where can I get a solid intake pipe for airbox --> turbo inlet?

The smallest actuator available is 15psi. Can I run that on the stock ecu? I have a feeling people will say something along the lines of 'no you can't you'll blow the motor'

I'm going to call the dude tomorrow to talk about a few more things but I'm interested to hear other people's experiences.

I'm also going to contact toshi I've heard great things about him

Thanks again for the input

Edited by Blackkers
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Various people will make you a metal turbo intake pipe. ScottyNM35 as an example. Or pretty much any workshop that does mod work like custom intercooler piping etc.

And no. a 15 psi actuator is going to be bad mojo. You need a stock RB25 actuator to keep it safe.

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm on the north shore of Sydney. Wet test showed little improvement. I'll get the timing belt and water pump swapped over before the new motor goes in.

Anyone know a good timing kit and water pump to get?

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