Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm trying to build my own oil cooler kit and I need some help with fitting and hoses.

I've bought:

-GREX sandwitch plate with built-in thermostat (-10AN outlets)
-Mocal 19 rows oil cooler core (5/8BSP outlets)

So I'm just wondering what's the best fittings/hoses to use to join both of them up.

I'm thinking of using -10AN braided hoses, so I'll get 2 x -10AN to -10AN hose and 2 x 5/8BSP to -10AN hose? Is that correct?

Also, any recommendations on where I could get them from?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427723-oil-cooler-fittings/
Share on other sites

I used Speedflow fittings and hose (115 teflon / black nylon braid) from motorsport connections in Moorabbin https://www.mscn.com.au

Speedflow seem to be the best fittings I have seen, but check out Proflow as well - I think they are cheaper. Bends etc are not as tight from what I can see but the Speedflow ones are off the planet expensive. A good tip is the straight fittings are much cheaper than any of the bends so if you can get away with a straight its a good thing for the wallet.

Google proflow - lots on ebay and I think you can buy them direct from their website.

Thanks Paul, I've been looking at speedflow and aeroflow, both on ebay. But I can't seem to find any of those fittings for 5/8BSP, as that's the outlet from my Mocal oil cooler... Any recommendations?

Yeah give Motorsport Connections a yell - they haven't failed me yet with being able to adapt to whatever is required. Not sure about ebay but I think Speedflow control the price so generally they retail for same from all dealers.

All the coolers I have dealt with have had AN fittings (JIC) or a metric female boss fitting that you can screw your desired male adapter into. I think you will need an adapter to use the Speedflow stuff on a BSPT but give them a call, tell them what you have to connect and find out your options.

Yeah, my Mocal cooler seems to have a built in male BSP connection..

But will give them a call for sure, as they are close to me too.

Will keep you guys updated :)

Cheers

Mine are all MSCN speedflow! Awesome gear!

^^ +1

I had nothing but issues with Proflow teflon fuel hoses and fittings leaking, TorquesUK has helped me out many times with braided lines for fuel and oil without a problem.

For oil I prefer the black nylon braid rubber cored hoses for oil cooler lines, as it is very flexible compared to the stainless braid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-AN10-Nylon-Braided-Stealth-Black-Hose-1m-/170690866285?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27bdf7ec6d

here's my Mocal & GReddy GREX setup:

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/

I went for a Mocal core with dash fittings rather than BSP (which might cost less, but cost more after converters, etc.)

  • 2 weeks later...

Had a really really good search for fittings... RARELY anything for the 5/8" male outlet on the cooler...


BUT, I did find 5/8" BSP female to 1/2" BSP male and speedflow fittings for 1/2" BSP female to -10AN hose.

So I'll be converting my 5/8" to 1/2" then use speedflow 1/2" adapter for -10AN nylon braided hose.

Can anyone let me know if this idea is ok?

​I understand that the more joints I have, the more chance of problems occurring......

So you need something like this... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AN-10-10AN-Male-1-2-BSP-BSPP-Female-Adapter-Mocal-Setrab-Oil-Cooler-/380572024115?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item589bdc3d33

But with a 5/8 bsp thread tapped into it? They may not exist, you may have to modify one and run a tap through it. I could probably help you if you can't find something local. Or you could run the adapters if you have the room...

Really depends where you mount the core, if you mount it where I have it, between the a/c condenser & FMIC, left from the a/c condensor fan you will not have much room available to fit 2x convertors and 2x dash fittings. Unless you mount it just before the wheel arch where it's also commonly mounted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...