Jump to content
SAU Community

installation of rears and front contridictions??


inark
 Share

Recommended Posts

hmmmm... i seem to be getting mixed results from this question... brendon from the SDU told me ages ago the 6x9s will fit no probs... and stated it in his website

http://www.geocities.com/brendonmoses/gts4page22.html

yet everyone else reckons they wont go in with out spacers.

anyone confirm either of these?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trust me - I've just done it - 6x9's will not fit (in the rear) without radical rework. I just said 'stuff it' and bough the best pair of 6.5"s and put these in - However, they didn't go in factory - a bit of modding needed to be done.

Suffice to say now I have a biatching stereo.

Lose the 6*9's and put 6" in and put a 15" sub in the boot !!

BF

edit - I'm talking R33 BTW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, you may have been monitoring my progress of the stereo install - Well, I got it all done today , put it all back to gether and guess what - Wild engine/alternator noise.

Anyone recomend some power filters ???

OH, and BTW, yes I seperated the audio and power lines down alternate sides of the car.

Edit - SORRY - I thought I was posting new thread.... I'll try again !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just to confirm.

6x9s WILL NOT FIT without modification to the rear parcel try.

i.e. mdf rings or fibreglass buildouts.

just stick a pair of beefy 6.5s in there and be happy with it

no one uses 6x9s these days anyway. they're gay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by mooks66  

no one uses 6x9s these days anyway. they're gay.  

:)

Not only are they gay, but they dont sound as good either. Sound travels in a spherical form thats why round speakers sound better.

6x9s will be louder though... good for hangin at maccas! :devfu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by riggaP

 

:)

Not only are they gay, but they dont sound as good either. Sound travels in a spherical form thats why round speakers sound better.  

6x9s will be louder though... good for hangin at maccas! :devfu:

lol welll im not really in for hanging at maccas but seeing as i want loud and already brought a pair of 300w pioneers i think i'll stick with em... sound quality comes from the 220w pioneer splits... i dont sit in the back... well i almost do... i only want the 6x9s for bass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no not at all... my mate has them in his car and the cabin is a lot bigger and they throw out a nice amount... im not into cruising chapel with my windows down and subs in the boot... im no hero... i want a nice amount of sound which i know these will produce... if i wanted competition i would have weighed my car down with lots of subs and not bothered with any rear speakers.

any more problems with my decision?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what was yoru decision man? so your gonna go for 6x9s in the rears?

well if you have to, the kicker 6x9s produce good midbass =)

and see to kenwood, and pioneer too

if you have abit more money then theres brands such as focal/morel/boston that you could consider.

but if not, dont bother, chuck 6x9s in there and be happy with it, that way you wont weigh your car down.

by the time im done with my car i'll have around 200 kgs of stereo in it (including sound deadening)...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol see thats exactly what i dont want... 200kgs of stereo... i just want some nice sound to listen to... dont want to have to fill the panels with concrete to create better sound and i need somewhere to stick my golf clubs.

i brought my speakers, amp and HU about 4 months b4 i got the car so im not really going to go out and buy new ones when they havent been opened :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have put my Pioneer 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf of my R32, on spacers. They just fit between the window, and the seat, theyre definately not coming out. They do certainly have a bit of bass, nothing like subs of course, but they were never meant to be like that anyways. I think it sounds good, for the simple system it is (Clarion CD deck, the aforementioned 6x9s, and kenwood 4x6 in the front)

But this way, no cutting of the rear shelf.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hay guys sorry just to confirm ?

i have bought my sound system but i havnt actually got the car hahahaha

well i got rockford splits 6" for the front Fusion ^" splits for the back Alpine V12 amp and a Fusion 1200watt sub 12" and box.

now i wnated to know iam preety sure about this but

the 180sx 94 + models have 6" in the doors and

6" at the back am i correct?

let me know guys hehe =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with inark....and have done the same thing....and have the same problem....dammit!

Everyone tells me some of the metal is gunna have to come out of the parcel tray. Does this reduce the rigidity of the car at all? If so would it be real bad? Maybe a rear strut brace...hmmm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am about to start fitting my stereo to my R33... do the Pioneer TS-C1625 6" splits fit in ok without cutting up the door steel, or trimming the door trim? I want to fit the speakers in the factory holes under the factory door trims.

Do I need 6" * 4"s to do this?

Thanks

Conrad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...