Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmmm... i seem to be getting mixed results from this question... brendon from the SDU told me ages ago the 6x9s will fit no probs... and stated it in his website

http://www.geocities.com/brendonmoses/gts4page22.html

yet everyone else reckons they wont go in with out spacers.

anyone confirm either of these?

Trust me - I've just done it - 6x9's will not fit (in the rear) without radical rework. I just said 'stuff it' and bough the best pair of 6.5"s and put these in - However, they didn't go in factory - a bit of modding needed to be done.

Suffice to say now I have a biatching stereo.

Lose the 6*9's and put 6" in and put a 15" sub in the boot !!

BF

edit - I'm talking R33 BTW

OK, you may have been monitoring my progress of the stereo install - Well, I got it all done today , put it all back to gether and guess what - Wild engine/alternator noise.

Anyone recomend some power filters ???

OH, and BTW, yes I seperated the audio and power lines down alternate sides of the car.

Edit - SORRY - I thought I was posting new thread.... I'll try again !!!

Originally posted by mooks66  

no one uses 6x9s these days anyway. they're gay.  

:)

Not only are they gay, but they dont sound as good either. Sound travels in a spherical form thats why round speakers sound better.

6x9s will be louder though... good for hangin at maccas! :devfu:

Originally posted by riggaP

 

:)

Not only are they gay, but they dont sound as good either. Sound travels in a spherical form thats why round speakers sound better.  

6x9s will be louder though... good for hangin at maccas! :devfu:

lol welll im not really in for hanging at maccas but seeing as i want loud and already brought a pair of 300w pioneers i think i'll stick with em... sound quality comes from the 220w pioneer splits... i dont sit in the back... well i almost do... i only want the 6x9s for bass.

no not at all... my mate has them in his car and the cabin is a lot bigger and they throw out a nice amount... im not into cruising chapel with my windows down and subs in the boot... im no hero... i want a nice amount of sound which i know these will produce... if i wanted competition i would have weighed my car down with lots of subs and not bothered with any rear speakers.

any more problems with my decision?

what was yoru decision man? so your gonna go for 6x9s in the rears?

well if you have to, the kicker 6x9s produce good midbass =)

and see to kenwood, and pioneer too

if you have abit more money then theres brands such as focal/morel/boston that you could consider.

but if not, dont bother, chuck 6x9s in there and be happy with it, that way you wont weigh your car down.

by the time im done with my car i'll have around 200 kgs of stereo in it (including sound deadening)...

lol see thats exactly what i dont want... 200kgs of stereo... i just want some nice sound to listen to... dont want to have to fill the panels with concrete to create better sound and i need somewhere to stick my golf clubs.

i brought my speakers, amp and HU about 4 months b4 i got the car so im not really going to go out and buy new ones when they havent been opened :)

I have put my Pioneer 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf of my R32, on spacers. They just fit between the window, and the seat, theyre definately not coming out. They do certainly have a bit of bass, nothing like subs of course, but they were never meant to be like that anyways. I think it sounds good, for the simple system it is (Clarion CD deck, the aforementioned 6x9s, and kenwood 4x6 in the front)

But this way, no cutting of the rear shelf.

Steve

hay guys sorry just to confirm ?

i have bought my sound system but i havnt actually got the car hahahaha

well i got rockford splits 6" for the front Fusion ^" splits for the back Alpine V12 amp and a Fusion 1200watt sub 12" and box.

now i wnated to know iam preety sure about this but

the 180sx 94 + models have 6" in the doors and

6" at the back am i correct?

let me know guys hehe =)

I agree with inark....and have done the same thing....and have the same problem....dammit!

Everyone tells me some of the metal is gunna have to come out of the parcel tray. Does this reduce the rigidity of the car at all? If so would it be real bad? Maybe a rear strut brace...hmmm

  • 2 weeks later...

I am about to start fitting my stereo to my R33... do the Pioneer TS-C1625 6" splits fit in ok without cutting up the door steel, or trimming the door trim? I want to fit the speakers in the factory holes under the factory door trims.

Do I need 6" * 4"s to do this?

Thanks

Conrad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...