Jump to content
SAU Community

Bonnet Gap In This Car Im Going To Look At.


Recommended Posts

Read up on a lot of guides to inspecting cars, one thing to look out for is panel gap which can indicate a crash.

This 200sx S15 im thinking of inspecting is showing some panel gaps in the pictures, the thing is the ad is quite appealing and the car

is located in a good area close to me, its claiming log books/service history and stock standard apart from pod, its got factory floor matts and badges

are all there unlike 95% of other s15s, and interior seems to be looked after, and its got no write off or stolen history but the panel gap i see in the picture seems very noticable.

Im going to look at it anyway and discuss this matter with the seller. What do you guys think of the panel gap is it bad repair job or could it be a number of other things ?

post-75998-0-18092500-1373441911_thumb.jpg

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car got slightly hit when someone reversed into it, and its easily noticeable that the bonnet is bent, showing a gap.

Personally i think that gap is more so something pushing on the bonnet. ( my front mount pushes on mine )

But also could be a hit, another way to check is push slightly down on the bonnet, if it moves down when you push, somethings up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car got slightly hit when someone reversed into it, and its easily noticeable that the bonnet is bent, showing a gap.

Personally i think that gap is more so something pushing on the bonnet. ( my front mount pushes on mine )

But also could be a hit, another way to check is push slightly down on the bonnet, if it moves down when you push, somethings up.

He claims only a pod filter, an aftermarket strut brace maybe is all i could think of that might be pushing it up. Thanks mate.

Without looking at in closer, I'd say the rubbers could use some adjusting under the hood but it could be more than that.

Might be so my R34 was missing some rubbers but never sat like this, might be different for the S15, thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best to see in person and speak to the owner.

From what I can see there is a slight angle on how that particular picture is taken, so this can emphasise a gap.

The front bar appears to have dropped on the left / or raised on the right very slightly.

I think the gap/s you see can be easily adjusted out.

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your not all telling me to run for the hills which is a decent sign, i will get it checked out could be

camera angle i looked at a few other pics of stock s15 which showed a similar gap not as large though

based on the angle, or the bumper could be misalighned, all good things to consider.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the bonnet may have been removed/ reinstalled for whatever reason

have a look around the area where the bonnet bolts onto the hinges and see if the factory sealant is still there (or has cracks in the sealant)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the bonnet may have been removed/ reinstalled for whatever reason

have a look around the area where the bonnet bolts onto the hinges and see if the factory sealant is still there (or has cracks in the sealant)

Will do, i didnt know about that !

i have a friends S15 which i regard as one of the cleanest Spec R's interms of its body i have seen

so will do a comparision with the one im looking at.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay first of all....you shouldn't of drawn all over the car with red...Its blurring my panel gap inspection.

Front bar has been taken off, and bonnet has non original panel gaps. Headlight alignment is also skew whiff.

Take it from me, I own an S15 with a clean slate ;). The fact its not listed as being in an accident means nothing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Without looking at in closer, I'd say the rubbers could use some adjusting under the hood but it could be more than that.

Was thinking this as well, see it happen on other cars. But as mentioned check it out. You haven't got anything to lose either way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you go to inspect the car ask the owner if they mind swinging past a smash repairer to find out how much it would cost to fix and what their thoughts are on the car.

Let the haggling begin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Due to my interest, I found the carsales ad. It was too no surprise that he hasn't provided any pictures of the engine bay.

Lols.


Heres what you do, rock up and say you want to ensure the front end has been repaired properly (and to my guess it hasn't considering they can't even sort out the panel gaps.... ha)....and then you'll be in the ballgame to start low balling.

A telltale sign of the accident damage (so people in the future know), is look at the passenger headlight and the bottom gap with the front bumper. See how its a bigger gap than on the drivers side even though the bar is PUSHED up higher in relation to the bonnet? Now to rule out bonnet sag, the front quarter panel wrappssss around the front headlight differently to the drivers side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on the topic of panel gaps:

if there are panel gaps (for example, between front bar and bottom of headlights, i.e. it is sagging a bit) but no repairs done to the bar (ie. it is still in original condition, and not actually damaged) then how likely is it that anything serious is damaged underneath?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on the topic of panel gaps:

if there are panel gaps (for example, between front bar and bottom of headlights, i.e. it is sagging a bit) but no repairs done to the bar (ie. it is still in original condition, and not actually damaged) then how likely is it that anything serious is damaged underneath?

If there are some clips missing which are used to fix on the front bar, this is enough to make the front bumper sag down a smidge. Even over time, some cars will have their bumpers sag down a touch.

But, think about this....there are plenty of "original" second hand used front bars which can be used to replace a damaged one.

If you're worried, easiest way to check if your car has some "front-end" history, is to check whether the bolts for the front quarters have been taken off. The paint for the bolts will basically "shatter" when you undo the front quarter panels, and as a result the bolts will usually be brush-touched for repaint. But obviously there are a lot more factors you need to look for. Checking for all original seam welding is useful too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if u have the FSM, maybe u can check the dimensions?

there could be nothing wrong except for a ill fitting imitation bumper or it could be a replaced radiator support panel.

its a drift car... so some damage is expected?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your help, but i got a text from the guy that he sold it. We had

organised it for Saturday, oh well i can use this knowledge for the next S15 that

pops up.

if u have the FSM, maybe u can check the dimensions?

there could be nothing wrong except for a ill fitting imitation bumper or it could be a replaced radiator support panel.

its a drift car... so some damage is expected?

Some damage thats been repaired to original dimensions is expected.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay first of all....you shouldn't of drawn all over the car with red...Its blurring my panel gap inspection.

Front bar has been taken off, and bonnet has non original panel gaps. Headlight alignment is also skew whiff.

Take it from me, I own an S15 with a clean slate ;). The fact its not listed as being in an accident means nothing.

What a load of shit chicken legs! Your car is all kinds of banged up! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second hand bumper

If there are some clips missing which are used to fix on the front bar, this is enough to make the front bumper sag down a smidge. Even over time, some cars will have their bumpers sag down a touch.

But, think about this....there are plenty of "original" second hand used front bars which can be used to replace a damaged one.

If you're worried, easiest way to check if your car has some "front-end" history, is to check whether the bolts for the front quarters have been taken off. The paint for the bolts will basically "shatter" when you undo the front quarter panels, and as a result the bolts will usually be brush-touched for repaint. But obviously there are a lot more factors you need to look for. Checking for all original seam welding is useful too.

thanks guys - i forgot to mention that the reason i think mine sags is, one of the tabs is broken, that holds it to the ....rad support??? NFI what it's called, but yeah one of the tabs is broken - now the question is WHY it is broken as the bar itself has no real hit damage, and i actually tried to take off the front bar itself to fix it up - and found it VERY difficult to take off, and the bolts holding the front bar on were consistent with the age of my car, in fact i get the very distinct impression i don't think it's ever been off in the first place.

i was asking more out of curiousity though, i THINK mine doesn't have front hit,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
    • I don't believe you.
    • All jokes aside, OP they're just called R32 oem rims as you said. The Nissan engineers back in the late 80's loosely copied the design from the Koya Driftek which was designed and produced about 18 years later.
×
×
  • Create New...