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Just a quick question about how stock is it possible to leave your car when aiming for higher kw?

Im hoping to get around the 220 mark buy just wondering if theres any mods like injectors and fuel pump and things like that I can actually leave stock and just get tuned to go harder? Are all the mods 100% necessary? Or is it unsafe to try and max out stock parts?

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Because the stock parts are getting on in age, its not ideal to push them to the limits. Having said that it can be done

I would get new injectors (not visible with stock plenum), fuel pump (not visible anyway), High flow turbo (hypergear or similar, wont notice it), boost controller (can be hidden) and computer (wont be seen, not noticable unless you have a hand controller etc)

Exhaust is the only thing that will be noticeable but I guess you could always use a X-Force Varex exhaust to keep it quiet. Intercooler - might need an upgraded side mount or black front mount

Yea I have been told there are some good aftermarket side mount coolers. I have a high flow turbo in my car now but not.pushing it at all, so realky just babying it. I hadn't really conaidered the age of things yet, makes sense to uograde where you can. Thanks :)

Hold off on the Varex for the time being if that's the way you plan to go. Give them a call

I hear that they will have them automated for 4,6.8 cylinder cars based on changing @ RPM by the end of this year and ADR approved.

(with a race mode switch)

Could be just a good rumour but maybe its worth checking out

Front mount

Full 3" exhaust

Fuel pump

Some form of boost controller

Nistune

and thats the cheapest easiest way to go about it. I made 217rwkw like this, the standard turbo had nothing left in, it the afm and injectors are still safe.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

post-63525-0-76896300-1374242678_thumb.jpg

I was told by stao (hypergear) that he could run an actuator in my exhaust system that opens and closes with different boost levels like that varex one which I hadn't heard of before, would that be an alright idea? Because then im guessing he could have it set to open just before boost. And I have been told 220 wasn't too adventurous in the way of power so thanks for the replies, didnt realise it would be that little to do, wont be able to go much harder with stock injectors and fuek pump later on im guessing

I was told by stao (hypergear) that he could run an actuator in my exhaust system that opens and closes with different boost levels like that varex one which I hadn't heard of before, would that be an alright idea? Because then im guessing he could have it set to open just before boost. And I have been told 220 wasn't too adventurous in the way of power so thanks for the replies, didnt realise it would be that little to do, wont be able to go much harder with stock injectors and fuek pump later on im guessing

Similar to this idea? http://www.nengun.com/apexi/exhaust-control-valve

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

that looks promising. I wonder if you used a different actuator so that naturally the valve is open and the engine vacuum closes it. That way it is more dependant on throttle position. Don't know what actuator to use though, had to be opposite of a wastage setup. my exhaust has a hooker aeroflow and a berkly straight through and is 87db at 3000rpm so it is legal and makes 284rwkw, so really you could save your cash by not using a varex

Hold off on the Varex for the time being if that's the way you plan to go. Give them a call

I hear that they will have them automated for 4,6.8 cylinder cars based on changing @ RPM by the end of this year and ADR approved.

(with a race mode switch)

Could be just a good rumour but maybe its worth checking out

shall be a very good thing if thats that case as they are a defectable item atm

I've heard you can be defected with the varex system, think it was a "hoon crackdown" thing.on a current affair haha. Is it still legak through the whole rev range? Or is it only to 3, 000 rpm that they test the db?

If you go for the varex get it put in the centre of your system as an oval version and paint it black. If youre like me and plan on using it when being pulled over etc then it will be just about impossible to spot being the centre muffler unless they literally crawl under your car and manage to get a look at the control box on top of the muffler (which you could easily hide anyway). Yes still not legal but a hell of alot easier to convince an officer its a quiet system when they cannot see the valve, especially if you have a discreet twin tip rear muffler.

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