Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

DIY posted here for the wheel bearing replacement - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/434655-r34-gtt-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement/

Chucked some gktech 15mm spacers on the front to fatten it up a bit, and grabbed a gktech upgraded fan and RB adapter while I was at it.

The fan I'm in two minds about, as it seems to cool better but is pretty noisy for daily use. I'll leave it for a bit and see if I get used to it. Installation was a breeze and everything fits perfect. It sits a little closer to the radiator, so its almost entirely in the shroud - which should mean maximum efficiency.

The spacers went on without any drama, with the rims having previously been machined to accept the stock stud length. I picked up some blue D1 spec wheel nuts, which are open ended to suit the longer stud length of the spacers. I've got no problems with using the nuts on extended studs, however I'll probably grab some steel studs from gktech when they are in stock.

I'll chuck a few pics up when I can

Gktech fan rested for daily duties, just a bit too noisy. I'll hang onto it for track duties where I'm sure it will perform perfectly.

Replaced the castor rods with some Cusco adjustables, and have wound a decent amount of castor into it. The stock bushes were a bit knackered, and caused the wheel to rub on the back guard lining in certain conditions. The steering is much more stable at speed and flicks back to centre nicely, with the car being much more responsive steering wise. The gap between the guard and the rear of the wheel has been doubled, so there is zero scrubbing at all now - win!

While the wheels were off I gave the front calipers and hubs a quick spray with black paint, looks good behind black/silver rims and the blue nuts.

Going to install some adjustable rear camber arms to get the rear wheels gripping a bit more, new tyres going on in the next week so I want to get that sorted so the insides don't get chewed out too quick

  • 1 month later...

Cusco rear camber arms now in, with 265 wide rubber in the back - hooks up well now!

Modded the stock airbox with a section from a r32 airbox to create an extra intake snorkel. Feels better up top now, the 34 snorkel is pretty squashed in places post-493-13909623543566_thumb.jpg

what rubber did you end up going with?
im sick of the pod, im on the hunt for a stock airbox for my stag with a good filter and snorkel, i like the duel intake, better than hot enginebay air.

what rubber did you end up going with?

im sick of the pod, im on the hunt for a stock airbox for my stag with a good filter and snorkel, i like the duel intake, better than hot enginebay air.

Got some nice cheap Kinforest KF550's, actually they perform quite well. Achilles seem to be gaining a reputation and their price has jumped quite a bit.These have nice stiff sidewalls, so they handle well.

The extra snorkel on the stock box seems to work well, seat of the pants tells me I've picked up some power. Draws in as cool air as possible without ducting it from outside the engine bay

  • 3 weeks later...

Back wheel bearing replaced for the third time, jeez I hope this one lasts! I think the passenger side tie rod bearing is worn, so will be doing this at some stage.

No real changes, chucked some plastidip on the weather shields which looks quite good, and blacked out the skyline badge on the boot oo.

General servicing. A fresh fill of Penrite Racing 10/40, new oil and air filter done. Replaced the oil drain plug with a magnetic item from gktech, quite impressed with it for the cost.

Pretty mpressed with the cheapo rear tyres, they perform very well. Attended the annual Ben Simpson Memorial cruise a few weeks ago and gave it a good run through the hills with around 2000 other car enthusiasts, and the car went really well.

Paint wise, I gave the car a going over with a clay bar and then gave it a good polish - came up mint. I've still got a few very light water stains on the roof, however being a daily its more than shiny enough.

Attempted to restore the steering wheel too - and it came up well - until we had 2 weeks around 40 degrees and the paint cracked! Oh well, you live and learn

On the wish list - a lower drivers seat so I can fit wearing a helmet, and bolt on turbo / injector upgrade

Some updated pics -post-493-0-39722200-1392862386_thumb.jpgpost-493-0-58406700-1392862466_thumb.jpgpost-493-0-31282500-1392862486_thumb.jpgpost-493-0-36604300-1392862498_thumb.jpg

  • 4 months later...

Time for a bit of an update, all maintainece or cosmetic.

Plasti dipped the weather shields black and they've come up pretty well. Added a leather cover to the steering wheel which fits great and enhances the wheel nicely

De-badged the rear, really tidied it up and makes the lights and the lip spoiler the eye catching items which suits the car well.

More servicing, with the Penrite Racing 10 selected. Magnetic sump plug has been a good addition with the smallest amount of metal finding it's way onto the magnet.

New boots on the front, went with some Dayton 225/40/18's and for the money they are great! Review posted in the tyre thread.

post-493-14056838154904_thumb.jpgpost-493-14056838360401_thumb.jpgpost-493-14056838957127_thumb.jpgpost-493-1405683956729_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Was a bit tired of the rims so I picked up some plastidip at lunch.

Colour is called Anthracite Metallic Gray, although it's Gray it does have a hint of bronze to it. Pretty much exactly what i was after

Transformed these rims, really happy with how it's turned out!

post-493-14075862849701_thumb.jpgpost-493-14075862942272_thumb.jpgpost-493-14075863087386_thumb.jpg

Bit of an update, more for me to keep records of servicing etc :thumbsup:

5000km service (120,000km total), Penrite Racing 10 and went for a genuine Nissan oil filter. They gave me a slightly smaller filter than the old faithful Ryco Z145A, seems to work just fine.

New air filter

Replaced the rubber bonnet stops as these had been squashed over time with the weight of the GTT steel bonnet. Cheap at $8 ea

Decided the brake pedal was feeling a touch 'off' so I re-bled the brakes, again using the Motul RBF600 fluid. Almost 12 months since I'd flushed it last, so not a bad time to do it. Pedal feel has improved, so I'm guessing the working life of this fluid is around 12 months.

Had a bit of spare time, so I went the little bit further with the wash this time and pulled off the rubbers around the boot and door seals and cleaned out all the crap built up over the years. Found a few tiny spots were some corrosion had started, so I cleaned that up with a bit of metal polish and sprayed a dab of RP7 on it. I'll clean it up and treat it with some rust paint when i get a chance!

Gave the front end bushes a quick spray with RP7 also to get rid of some of the tiny squeaks, but a few days later they are back - will grease these proprely when time permits

Hey mate what type of side skirt is that on yor 34 ? Looks awsome I want one for mine lol

They are the factory optional parts, the wrecker that I buy parts from reckons it was a Nismo option. Wouldn't surprise me given the amount of factory fitted Nismo parts.

Where'd you pick up the rubber bonnet stops?

Loving the build so far :)

Got them brand new from Nissan - part number 65829-AA000

Edited by Chris32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...