Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20E Head Swap

JediKnightBoB
 Share

Recommended Posts

JediKnightBoB Apprentice

JediKnightBoB

Posted
Posted

Oh hay guyze.

So, turns out RB20E's are slow and gutless. I'm considering my various options for conversions. Obviously a full swap to a 25DE is an option, but I'm wondering what might happen if I put the 25DE head on the 20E block? Can that be done, do channels and bolt holes line up? Would I need to change ECU or loom? Straight swap or splicing?

I have a guy who can do the wiring, and we've got everything we need to do that conversion, so I could do it myself over a week or so (planned time, actual time expected to take up to a full month... lol).

If this is a shitty idea, let me know. What other head swaps should I think about? Obviously the 20DE head will fit, and I know that'll be f**k all power increase, but it'd be nice to at least clear 100kw and be able to keep up with a Prius or Tiida... lol. Should I abandon the whole idea and only consider full engine swaps?

Cheers all,
B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429216-rb20e-head-swap/
Share on other sites
JediKnightBoB Apprentice

JediKnightBoB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's a lot of work then? I was hoping manifolds etc. would be the same, or at least similar enough to make it fit, haha. Just pop it off, pop a new gasket and a better head on, and reattach everything (i.e. a day's work). Out of interest, and so I know, what else would need changing?

But yeah, I can get a 25DE for under a grand, so I see your point. I'll just have to find an engine loom and ECU somewhere, and replace it all, yeah? AFAIK the gearbox and engine mounts wouldn't need changing, but feel free to correct that if I'm wrong there :)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429216-rb20e-head-swap/#findComment-6944244
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

Given the price that complete engines can be had for, and how much work would be required for the head swap versus an engine swap, I'd go the engine swap

^^ do this. . easiest way to go and no headaches

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429216-rb20e-head-swap/#findComment-6945302
Share on other sites
JediKnightBoB Apprentice

JediKnightBoB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The RB20 can't take the head if any other RB without serious custom work to make it fit.

Bore size on the RB is different to a 25, 26, and 30.

Swap hole engine, or swap the whole car.

Thank you, I was after technical reasons it was or wasn't a good idea. Cheers :)

Wont be legal if youre doing this on your ps... sell car buy another or deal with the amazing rarity that is an rb20e.

Lol I don't even remember being on my P's...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429216-rb20e-head-swap/#findComment-6948744
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...