Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

only the one rod looks to have heat damage.

so, id say blocked oil feed to that rod.

then bearing shredded.

and those pieces have gone through the rest of the motor.

this has caused the damage to the other bearings.

seems like this would be possible.

The heat damage is consistent with running for a very long time after the bearing has suffered complete failure. You've had a temporary starvation of oil at some point. Every one of those bearings shows it. The mains are polished and the bigends definitely show it. The bearings for cyls 1 & 6 are going to be the worst because they are the last in line to get fed oil from the main gallery in the crankshaft. The mains don't suffer the hammering because there is minimal lateral loads unless a missfire or detonation occurs. That's why they are just polished.

The rest of the big end bearings partially survived because when oil supply was regained, they continued to be lubricated. 1 more second without oil and #6 would have looked like #1 does and another 3 seconds and the rest would look like #6 does now or worse.

There is only 0.0001" difference between what #6 looks like and what #4 & #5 look like. That's all it takes. The damage was done and then you continued to drive it for what looks like maybe 1000 miles. You probably didn't hear it due to exhaust noise and the fact you might have been relatively gentle on your new engine.

It's disconcerting that the oil pump hasn't failed. That would be an easy find. Are you sure there is no crack in the inner or outer gear? You have to look very closely (by the sounds of your descriptions you know what you're doing)

Also measure the outer gear in 6 places to make sure it's still round as well as the inner gear if you can.

I don't think this is going to be the cause though.

Any idea what clearances were run?

The only thing I did was put a few shims on the oil pump to back off some of the pressure. I had it down to 50 at idle and above 100 at 3200. Before it was idling at 80-90psi. Could that have done anything? I did that about 500 miles ago.

you can put a shim (washer) under the head of the bolt and it will back it off.

Not a shim under the spring.

of course. Was a bit early in the morning for me!Such a shame to see the damage man. All the best.

i got a whole running rb30 for $50, kept the block and crank and recycled the rest

was once given a complete bottom end before 30s where done in GTRs and scraped the idea and binned the block

that is a sweeeeeet Z, would love to have one with a 2630 in it, mad skids

every thing that needs to be said has been about the damage, it def looks like oil supply issue where it be a air surge or not enough flow to the bottom end

I agree it has been an oil supply problem then continuing to drive,

I supplied just a bare short block and had no input into anything else, such a shame for such a nice car and a forged bottom end.

There's a few things of concern I have seen in the pictures and I've been over everything with the owner in about 50 e-mails over the last few days and am more than happy to help get him going again,

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...