Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952331
Share on other sites

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

pretty much this.

mine is pretty responsive, even off boost.

which is a good thing, because I have to wait a looooooong time for boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952383
Share on other sites

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

Errr? I'm asking why so low? I wouldn't want it that low. I wanted 9.3:1 in my own engine.

Edit. Oops, read out of context. Haha!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952455
Share on other sites

Sensitive!!!

Continuing Lukes post, E85 is always going to be a challenge if it's your only fuel choice. Flex fuel is always a great option. 98 and taking it easy on cruises, E85 and cane it for track work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952471
Share on other sites

Yep, these were comp ratios that were from a time of (all that was available at the pump)low octane ULP and non intercooled motors :-(

Yeah good call and totally correct. Fuel was shite back in 1986! No premium or ultimate back then.

You need to work out what turbos you're running and what is the intended purpose of your car before you choose your comp. If you're running a massive single and focussing on drag racing or a HP dyno hero then go a bit lower comp and pump in huge boost. If you want a driveable street car or track car with good response and minimal lag out of corners then go a higher comp and smaller turbo/turbos.

Do what works for you, not what everyone else has done as we all have our own goals and uses for our cars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6953949
Share on other sites

just getting some ideas input what they run wit cars , some say low or high comp - work shop says low but I would prefer some info from owners first how it drives ect.

42r 1.01 rear 3L block full race head 260inlet/270ex 10.25 lift powerglide

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6954213
Share on other sites

just getting some ideas input what they run wit cars , some say low or high comp - work shop says low but I would prefer some info from owners first how it drives ect.

42r 1.01 rear 3L block full race head 260inlet/270ex 10.25 lift powerglide

I have gt42 china, 26/30, 256 9.15 lift, 9.0:1, 4" turbo back zorst.

turbo is thrust bearing, so takes a while to kick in.

still driveable due to comp ratio.

6 speed box helps too. (manual)

but, as stated, what use?

track weapon?(guessing with glide).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6954582
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...