Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck said:

---------------------------------------------------------------

I'm with you Duncan about the 40 figure.....it's the 5W30 or even worse the 0W30 figure in Australia that does not suit this motor. That oil figure is for the Japanese domestic market and as this car was only released into the Japanese market things will be different. e.g. 100 octane fuel, Temperature, Humidity....and the big daddy.....Snow! They also recommend plugs with a heat sig of 5....I run 7's

"but thicker oils protect better at high temperatures/stresses" This statement only reenforces my argument for not using a 5W30 oil......We have a high boost motor(even in standard form) pushing 2T through a gearbox that sucks over 1/3 of the power and for 5-6 months of the year in the eastern states we can quite easily hit 30-40 degree's.

The Grade of oil also plays a significant part in motor wear with this thing.......Going to Bob the mechanic and getting him to do an oil change with a $5 filter and $20 can only lead to a bad ending. But what do I know.......it's not like I work on these things every other weekend.

Adam - Test the IIRC recommended oil! Go crank some more boost into the motor and take if for a thrash......then put 10W40 in and do the same thing. Let me know what you come up with..... also test it mid summer!

------------------------------------------------------------

I will probably test the Valvoline 5W-40 full synth i have in it at the moment at 10,000kms, and I will try a ?W-30 after that and also test it at 10k too. Will only be stock motor on stock boost tho. My Stag is a daily and the GTR is the one for thrashing. If you're running a non-standard motor, then the factory oil recommendation no longer applies. I don't recall OP mentioning he was non-standard, but even even on a mild tune I still believe a full syn 0W-40 should be an excellent choice.

Re thicker oils, you can get the benefits of a thin oil with the protection of a thick oil, if the thin oil has a good HTHS.

Agree that noise is probably and indicator of damage - but ill pose the question on BITOG to see if they agree. FWIW, some additives reduce notice, and that's unrelated to viscosity.

BTW - i'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just saying I haven't heard anything that convinces me yet. I have cognitive bias that makes me see cognitive bias everywhere...

  • Like 1

I suspect the majority of the oil viscosity noise is coming from the VQ cam chain tensioners, the two smaller chains between the cams. These tensioners have restrictors in and out, and can bleed off too quick with a thinner oil, not pushing the chain with enough force to keep it tight. I find a 10w40 perfect to remedy these noisier engines. Any thicker simply makes the car feel lethargic.

Why don't you try a thinner oil and let us know how you go, I doubt it will stay in the engine for 2k let alone 10...

Quite happy to see your results on a stock motor with stock boost and turbo on 30 degree plus days.

Have you checked the average temps between japan and Australia? Have you also taken into consideration the octane on fuel? What about the ramped up versions running more than 137awkws in 40 degree heat?

Please specify what brand of oil you are using as you did mention that different brands react differently.

Ps. Did the Australian complied r32's have oil coolers fitted for any particular reason? I've never gotten the full story on why they made that decision!

UK spec R33 and R34 had additional oil coolers for engine, transmission and diff, and I think higher final drives, for sustained high speed running. They also had full Connolly leather interiors.

I also know for a fact that none of the official press cars lived longer than 12 months before some journo wrote them off...

Ok, well you're both scaring me now, but ill still try the ?w-30 anyway. Probably Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP.

BTW - what oils do you both run?

Is anyone here running a ?w-30? If so, which one?

GW Syn-x 6000 here. More importantly is the drain interval, these engines have too many tiny restrictors on vital parts to skimp on oil changes. Buy a cheaper oil and drop it more often.

Neo 10w30 (VQ35de) and change every 10,000.

Neo 10w40 or Motul 300v when I had the VQ25det, changed every 10,000. Anything else and I'd dump it after 5,000.

Was waiting for your input Cam.....and I totally agree.

FYI there's no love for using a 30, so apparently i'm a slow learner and a 40 is the way to go, as you've all been saying.

The Valvo SynPower 5W-40 seems fine, but Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 might be a little better at the same price point. Mobil 1 0W-40 a little better still but more expensive, then Redline and 300v better still and even more expensive.

I'll get the SynPower tested at 10K to verify its ok for the full OCI.

10k? If you like... Will you be changing filters every 5? It's pretty small...

For a stock M35 I believe GW synx 3000 is fine, dropped every 5k. At $22 a bottle you can't go wrong imo.

I ran just about everything during my VQ25det ownership.

Anything made by Valvoline, Shell, Mobil, Penrite, Castrol, GW, Motul (except the 300v line) etc I strongly urge you to drop every 5,000kms. VQ25det is quite hard on oil and lesser blends can certainly start breaking down in under 10,000kms.

Only oils that I used that were good after 10,000kms were Motul 300v Chrono (10w40), Neo Platinum 10w40 and the now unavailable GW Sougi S5000. Even Redline 10w40 started sounding harsh and feeling "loose" at around 8,000.

ok, i'll drop it a 5k and get it tested.

Last time i checked Redline had superior stats to 300v in the ones i cross checked, but all the manufacturers appear to be constantly improving their oils without changing the product name. They're both 100% group 5 oils, so should hold up really well. Interesting that it didnt appear to.

10k? If you like... Will you be changing filters every 5? It's pretty small...

For a stock M35 I believe GW synx 3000 is fine, dropped every 5k. At $22 a bottle you can't go wrong imo.

Suggesting a shorter OCI but a crappier oil - thats whacky logic! 180 degree about face :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...