Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was without but we did the same test a few weeks back and got the 150-160

I'll give everyone a break down of how I did the test and I don't think throttle matters in this situation.

-Unplugged injector plug.

-Removed all spark plugs/coils.

-Got the compression tested and wound it into the cylinder.

-Turned the key over until it reached peak PSI and then stopped.

-Recorded said PSI and moved onto the next cylinder.

This sounds good. ^^^

Batty was definately down by a couple of Volts, but turn the engine fine, Headlights worked etc...

How was the car last driven?

Easy duties or Fully Thrashin' it?

I think we have to admit it couldn't throw results that bad.

To go from something like 160 to 25 is a massive drop.

Then for the cylinder tested after that to be 90 just wouldn't make sense.

Also we tried to jump start it and it wouldn't start so the battery is not the problem haha.

dont stress to hard till you do it properly. charge that battery to 12.6v make sure you.threads are clean for each cylinder and that the compression tester is seated and tight on each plug. make sure the cylinders are not completely dry using a few drops of oil or injectors still plugged in.

have to eliminate variables to get solid results.

same with jump starting, rating of leads, clean connections on both problem and donor car, donor car raising the revs to 2kish when trying to start, also problem cars voltage cant be too low either as it still wont kick. (not everythings black and white)

If your engine is cold, then you are going to get really low compression test results. I tested my car the other week without warming it up to operating temperature and got really low CT results, ~120 psi. It had me worried, but it should be around ~160 when it is warm and the tolerances have tightened up.

Edit: Didn't see the 25. thats a bit too low

Edited by chus13

Head gasket?

check for oil in water and water in oil

You could do that in a few hours if theres no head warping, trojan prob have a gasket on the shelf

re test for sure

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

those numbers are too low double check that the tester was sealing correctly or that there isnt something wrong with the tester (try it on a known good engine), also compression tests are done with the throttle completely open (foot to the floor).

stick the battery on a charger or do the test with jumper leads connected to another car so it has some decent volts while testing.

Thanks again guys

Okay so I'll try a re test tonight and do it with open throttle. Also stinky if you are free this afternoon that would be great if you could swing by with some r33 parts and jumper leads?

If not I could borrow a car possibly and come borrow parts off people :)

Already got a tool box off Bryce and comp tester off Verms haha

Timing belt has not been changed since I have owned it. And I have had it for about 45,000km

Not sure when it was previously changed

What would happen if that was to break?

Does it still do huge damage at idle when something like that happens?

Timing belt breaks > nothing governing camshaft rotation > pistons mash valves.

If your timing belt broke you'd probably have heard horrible sounds as the pistons slammed into valves, rather than it just conking out like you indicated.

I'm still thinking something electrical...if the timing belt snapped and it mashed valves, given one cylinder is significantly worse than the others I'd like to think there should be at least 1 cylinder that reads almost normal (valves closed and intact)

Dude im sorry to hear that. I thought the same thing when we tested my engine, running ZERO PSI on 2 Cyl and about 10-20 on the other four. It's a shame i didn't take photos of what was left of my pistons when the engine was pulled apart.

Honestly id just pull the head off and check it. Hopefully its a gasket but it sounds like something more important. Just get a $1500 engine and swap your parts over. Maybe even find a whole 33 for like 2-3k so you have a full parts car.

I'm hesitant to suggest gasket as it'd be a bit unlikely to fail across every cylinder wouldn't it? I'd have thought once it blew the weak spot out, that's it and only the cylinders that needed that bit of the gasket to seal would show low compression....also if it failed on this scale, you'd be guaranteed water in the oil system and visa versa.

I should point out everything I suggest is just speculation. I've never dealt with engine failure or anything close to this scale of fail, so I'm just relying on my firm grasp of internal combustion engines and what effects what, particularly with RBs :)If I wasn't such an academic failure through school (thanks to giving almost literally NO f**ks for it), I'd be a pretty bloody decent mechanical engineer lol....just the way my brain is wired....unfortunately I'm just lazy and have next to no attention span for things that don't interest me :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...