Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just bought my brothers r33 gtst which is hunting whilst driving or idle..

It was blowing some black smoke which has stopped since replacing the fuel filter, spark plugs and oil filter/oil.

At the same time the hunting stopped so i thought i had fixed it however today it started again....

I am sus to it being the coil packs ?? (does this sound like a possibility?)

didnt want to pointlessly buy some so was wondering if anyone in Penrith/western sydney has any i could try and see if they fixed the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430698-r33-gtst-hunting/
Share on other sites

Hunting during idle is typically due to additional air getting into the system which the air flow meter isn't registering. This is due to a leak somewhere.

The most likely culprit is the black charcoal box that they have to install when importing for emissions reasons. One of the hoses that comes out of this feeds back into your plenum. If you plug the hose with a ball bearing and the hunting stops you've found your culprit. Other points to check are the multitude of vacuum hoses that run around the engine but you don't often see these leaking.

  • 2 months later...

OK guys, reviving a bit of an old post, still having issues...

symptoms:

Car is hunting (not always) on idle...

when driving there is a miss (sometimes not consistent)...

when driving revs cut out completely but the boost gauge on the dash says its still on boost (do not need to be driving hard - intermittent)...

Fix Attempts:

Cleaned the AFM

Cleaned the AAC Valve

Changed Spark Plugs

Changed Fuel Filter

Changed Oil Filter

Changed cracked vacuum hose coming off of the plenum (just above the aac - went back to a black box)

Plugged above hose after changing it didnt help

New genuine o2 sensor

I'm out of ideas, the only thing i have yet to try would be coil packs but dont want to spend all that money and it not be the problem. any other suggestions?

OK guys, reviving a bit of an old post, still having issues...

symptoms:

Car is hunting (not always) on idle...

when driving there is a miss (sometimes not consistent)...

when driving revs cut out completely but the boost gauge on the dash says its still on boost (do not need to be driving hard - intermittent)...

Fix Attempts:

Cleaned the AFM

Cleaned the AAC Valve

Changed Spark Plugs

Changed Fuel Filter

Changed Oil Filter

Changed cracked vacuum hose coming off of the plenum (just above the aac - went back to a black box)

Plugged above hose after changing it didnt help

New genuine o2 sensor

I'm out of ideas, the only thing i have yet to try would be coil packs but dont want to spend all that money and it not be the problem. any other suggestions?

The miss could be caused by the coils, but I am not sure if it is causing the hunting. If the car has done well over 100k kms, the coils should be changed anyway. A set of splitfires set me back $400 and were easy to install, and should last you another 100k kms and will last with any mods you plan on doing.

Like Plattsy said, try a ecu reset. Although I didn't think it needed to be off for 24 hours, I would have thought 20 mins would be enough.

The miss could be caused by the coils, but I am not sure if it is causing the hunting. If the car has done well over 100k kms, the coils should be changed anyway. A set of splitfires set me back $400 and were easy to install, and should last you another 100k kms and will last with any mods you plan on doing.

Like Plattsy said, try a ecu reset. Although I didn't think it needed to be off for 24 hours, I would have thought 20 mins would be enough.

you can do it in twenty if you pump the brakes or some shit. but i always left it for a day to be sure.

Tried the ECU now, no good still the same. the annoying this is its not consistent, at first it ran well but shortly after started having the same issues. Any other ideas? I was thinking due to it being intermittent it might be some sensor or electrical fault?

OK, car ran good for about a week, played up again, ran good another 2 days, played up and now seems to have a constant issue of the car starting to drop revs when i go above 2500 RPMs in any gear. If i stay below the 2500 the car is running fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...