Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a strange issue with my RB25DET. It seems to have a weird fluttering/wooshing sound when coming on boost, a lot louder than normal. It seems to build and hold boost ok, maybe a little laggier than usual. I'm thinking maybe a boost leak, but here's the spanner in the works: the weird wooshing sound disappears during medium-hard left turns?? How weird is that? Does anyone know what could cause this issue and why it disappears during left turns only???

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430790-weird-boost-issue-help/
Share on other sites

After the sound got worse I eventually found the problem - broken stud where the dump bolts to the turbo, letting a heap of exhaust through the gap. Now I have a worse situation than a boost leak, the stud is broken inside of the turbo exhaust housing and I need some way to get it out...Preferably without removing the turbo >_>

Trust me - I had the same problem last year... Take your turbo out and take it to a thread doctor or machinest... If you do it yourselves I can guarantee you'll ruin it.

Try removing the turbo yourself - if you need help just post on here and I'm sure you'll get plenty of help!

There are many brands. Just go into any hardware or auto parts store and see what they sell. Loctite do one, as do many other big brands. We use one at work with graphite in it and it seems to work well (although it's a bit messy). I have a can of stuff somewhere that I got when I was working at an exhaust shop that we used to use there which worked well too. If I can find it I'll post up what it is.

There are many brands. Just go into any hardware or auto parts store and see what they sell. Loctite do one, as do many other big brands. We use one at work with graphite in it and it seems to work well (although it's a bit messy). I have a can of stuff somewhere that I got when I was working at an exhaust shop that we used to use there which worked well too. If I can find it I'll post up what it is.

Thanks for the info.

The thing is, I can go and buy another brand, but if it works just as well as WD40, is there any point in paying more for it (if it costs more)? Hopefully the other brands can provide a stronger product, or one that lubricates better.

The graphite stuff sounds good.

Wd40 is only really a water dispersant and thin oil. It has very little in the way of actual lubricating properties. You can find some friction test videos on YouTube. If you search "friction master wd40" on YouTube there is a 2:36 long video of a test between protecta spray (which I've used and it's pretty good) and wd40. Protecta also have a video on YouTube doing the same test with more oils. I know the guy doing the protecta video and he told me about some other lubes that performed well on the test (almost to the level of protecta), but they didn't show them for obvious reasons. They were bicycle chain lubes though, so not much use for anything else.

Fyi, I am in no way affiliated with protecta.

And using some sort of grease or anti-seize paste when installing things certainly makes life easier in the long run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...