Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

This has probably been covered already but I am not having much luck finding it if there is.

Is there a post on recent ecu comparisons.

My build is using a RB25det

My mods planned so far

Greddy inlet manifold

High rise turbo manifold

Hta 3076 or gtx3076 turbo ( not purchased yet)

Manual box

Fmic

Bigger injectors

I guess what I am looking for is around the 400whp max and I am looking for an ecu that has a few tunes available, should be able to get me over the emissions test on one of the tunes

Adjustable Boost controll

And be MAP compatible.

I probably have missed some things as I am new to these engines.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/
Share on other sites

If you go with a plug in haltech of similar, you can choose to use the map sensor or the stock afm. You would be able to set it up to run the afm for an inspection, then switch back to the map sensor..

I'd find out your requirments for inspection before you get too far ahead of yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6988873
Share on other sites

^ Agreed, depending on state requirements are different... Most certainly should know about the test before anything else.

Also running E85 doesn't mean you instantly are "hassle free", despite the people saying how easy the test is to pass... That's only one factor as there is nothing to stop a Police officer saying "I don't think you are running E85" and off you go to the pits anyway.

And while you are at it, more research on the set-up. 400rwhp does not mean getting a GTX3076 and running E85, far too much turbo for that power aim when you can get smaller and be more responsive for the same end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6988882
Share on other sites

Go to your tuner, Tell him what you have just typed here and then get whatever ECU he says

No point getting an ECU that your tuner doesnt want to touch

This assumes you have fixed on a tuner first. If you haven't then research the best ECU choice for your needs and then ask who is the best at tuning them. If they are a reputable shop then go for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6988981
Share on other sites

^ Agreed, depending on state requirements are different...

And while you are at it, more research on the set-up. 400rwhp does not mean getting a GTX3076 and running E85, far too much turbo for that power aim when you can get smaller and be more responsive for the same end.

Good points there to consider there, only going by what was recommended to me with the turbo size, thank you for the advice and I will do some more research when I get back to the big smoke, if I can go a smaller turbo and pick up good response then that's great, not after huge HP just some decent HP so the car is fun to drive.

If Fitting the AFM to get past licensing then running the MAP sensor part of the ecu after is what I have to do then I will do that no big deal.

Running E85 was only an option to get past the emissions part of licensing due to the fuel burning cleaner if it was needed, once car is licensed I was going to run premium pump fuel.

Ok so I have a few mates that build Rb's and I have spoken to RIPS over in NZ because I was looking at one of their manifolds at one stage and some fellas that have drift cars.

Recommended so far

Haltech

Wolf

Power FC

Link G4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6989052
Share on other sites

Definitely speak to your tuner first.

In my case, I've got a Link G4 plug-in, and my tuner has no problems tuning it. BUT, he doesn't know it as well as he does Haltech. While the Link is very comparable to the Haltech, he could do a much better job tuning a Haltech ECU, simply because he has a lot of experience with them. Not to say he doesn't do a great job tuning with the Link, but when you go to such a powerful stand-alone ECU there are a lot of ways to set things up, so with the Haltech he knows exactly what he wants to do and how he wants to set it up, but with the Link he needs to figure it out.

In the end, the two ECU's might both be great ECU's, but if going with one over the other means your tuner knows exactly how to get it to idle perfectly with the A/C on first time without you needing to bring it back for little corrections, etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6989285
Share on other sites

I just do not understand how a tuner could tune one ecu, but not another.

Probably just CBF. Or in the case of HKS authorised tuners - because they have nearly no competition so can keep people tied to them :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6989564
Share on other sites

Hi everyone and thank you for your advice

I have just finished speaking to a fella over here in Perth who used to work for 101 garage in QLD

Looks like I will probably

Lol i assume you are on mobile and it automatically sent half way through a reply? :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6989993
Share on other sites

Hi everyone and thank you for your advice

I have just finished speaking to a fella over here in Perth who used to work for 101 garage in QLD

Looks like I will probably go with the Haltech unit and the 3073 turbo on top of a 6 boost manifold.

I didn't realize that running E85 was that much of a mess around ( excuse my ignorance)

Will use the AFM to pass licensing and then run the internal MAP sensor in the ecu.

The engine exhaust noise shouldn't be too much of an issue as long as its gone properly.

Most probably won't be pulled over every day like you do in a skyline majority of 5 O wouldn't expect that from an old fj holden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430858-ecu-comparison/#findComment-6989996
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...