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My mechanic works at a Nissan stealarship but he has said that they are not able to get firmware for imports because they have Aussie version Consult 3 which does not allow them to download/access firmware upgrades for cars that they do not sell here.

Bullshit. That unit is capable of being put into domestic mode VERY easily. Done it severl times locally.

That said it can be setup to grab software as well.

Getting them to do that though will be nearly impossible.

You're probably right but unfortunately for me he's tied to them and can't do as he wish. If only he didn't move to the stealership he would probably able to get it. Do you have access to them Chris?

  • 2 weeks later...

It won't be the o2, you can test it by unplugging them (there is one per bank) They aren't cheap to replace, you will be paying around $500 for the parts alone.

From my experience it sounds like the crank sensor, but you need to get it onto a scanner/oscilloscope to check the signals before blowing your coin swapping parts that may or may not be faulty. Just my opinion...

Skipping a beat constantly, could be:

spark plugs

a coil pack

dodgy wire or connection

a faulty/blocked injector

Crank/cam sensor

faulty ecu

The list goes on... Swapping parts until it's fixed can get expensive, unless you can borrow them off a known working car. Work your way through the cheapest options first if you can.

I've never seen another v36 sedan in SA :P

I've found them for about $70ea, but you're right it won't be o2 :( I'm hoping that the auto elec will be able to get a error code this week.

All the mechanics ive ever been to have all been the swap & see kind of people. Hate them so much lol!

Is that the same problem as you're having? with the chug from a stop & start (traffic lights) after it's warmed up every stop? With the same chug every 1 second @ 50% strength between 1000rpm & 2200rpm?

Which goes away after 5-10 minutes?

Have you recieved your cam shaft sensors yet?

Want me to send a crank sensor over for you to try?

You may need to try re-aligning the crank sensor, sometimes they don't pick up the signal well unless you shim them to one side.

They are different sensors between the banks. It could just be the angle of the plug, or there could be more to it. Better to change them both if you suspect an issue.

A faulty cam sensor should throw a code without affecting the engine's running I am fairly sure. More likely to be a crank sensor imo. If you can try unplugging the crank sensor and using just the cam sensors for timing control you may find it runs smoother, although slower from being in batch fire ignition limp mode.

  • 3 weeks later...

Went to nissan for a scan today (after two auto elecs came up with nothing) and front LHS o2 sensor is all over the place on the graph.

They want $1,788 to replace the front two o2 sensors WTF?

Lol, the sensor is available cheap if you look around, it is just a standard Bosch wideband sensor I assume.

Message sent Chris, cheers

Yeh scotty, total bullshit. I'm sure the whole procedure is straight forward as well, unless there's some sort of calibration shit that needs to be done? wouldn't have thought so though

Maybe they are charging for the labour to take the exhaust manifold off....!

Sensors can be bought for 100 something bucks. I know, I melted one....

And if it's similar position to the vq35 you won't need to remove the manifolds.

Maybe they are charging for the labour to take the exhaust manifold off....!

Sensors can be bought for 100 something bucks. I know, I melted one....

And if it's similar position to the vq35 you won't need to remove the manifolds.

It is a VQ35, front passenger sensor. But they "suggest" replacing both front sensors.

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