Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I replaced my o2 sensor with a genuine item.

Around the same time fuel economy went really bad ~350-380km's to a tank, at times I felt what felt like 1/4 throttle travel flat spots not to mention the really hard cold starts. :S

However, I had been having cold stumbling starts for a while prior.

I ripped the injectors out and noticed a couple of the pintles were seated at different heights.

Dropped GTR injectors in, trimmed the injectors by 58.5% in order to get them to drop in to closed loop mode.

Initial drive... 130km's to a tank, 250km's by half... :P

Looks like economy is back, rb30det. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1913695
Share on other sites

Nick, don't forget that the bottom of the tank is a bit smaller, so you'll go through the bottom half quicker than the top. I made the mistake of thinking "wow! I've fixed it!" when I got 100 in the first quarter of a tank. I filled on 350km exactly last night.

Putting the stock BOV back on doesn't seem to have fixed anything other than getting rid of that noisy "woosh" noise that makes police and old people look at me funny.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1916081
Share on other sites

I have read through most of this tread, there seems to be hardly any info on the R33 GTR.

How hard are they to get to? Is it any easy DIY job or should i get a mechanic etc to do it? Does it entail taking the exhaust out or turbos in a GTR since there i limited room around and behind the turbos?

Any help will be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1919129
Share on other sites

Actually it has been a PITA finding ones for the 33 GTR. They are 3 wire, 18mm thread titania ones.

ACA don't have a part that will fit (ie ROX203 nor ROX207 are right). Let me know if you have any luck finding another alternative.

And, the rear one is a real pain to remove while the motor is in the car....not impossible but you will need a very short flare style spanner

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1919267
Share on other sites

No duncan and Nissan are rip off merchants about $150 each i think .

Copper you should be able to get them off with a spanner, anyway its cheaper to buy the tube socket and then you have it for next time .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1920083
Share on other sites

Its similar to a spark plug socket with a slot on one side going almost all the way down so the cable fits in there, 22 mm . Go to any place where they sell tools even normal auto shops would probably have it and you should be able to get a cheap Chinese one. The rear one is very easy on the gtr ( when you have the tool ), you dont have to remove anything to get to it. The front i think you will have to remove some ducting to get to it .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1920888
Share on other sites

Had a read but couldnt find anyone else experiencing the same problem....

My 02 sensor when starting my car basically just sits at 0.3 volts. doesnt cycle like u guys mentioned.

After driving around and wen the car heats up the voltage slowly drops down to 0.00 volts! It occasionly slowly comes back up for whatever reason, but definately isnt cycling, pretty much constant reading.

Fuel economy isnt the best either 300kms if im lucky. any ideas? obviously not normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1926262
Share on other sites

ok, have replaced my o2 sensor with the ngk one for an r33 gts-t

part number 0ZA395E2AB

no difference to economy so far :mellow:

what else can cause poor fuel economy

i dont get more than 300ks a tank from a 200rwkw gts-t (via usual mods, powerfc etc)

Edited by Spook's_Skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1930374
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...