Jump to content
SAU Community

Torqueing Up Flywheel Bolts

mtopxsecret6

By mtopxsecret6,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Either put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and get someone to hold it or lock it against something or the preferrable option is to put a bolt through in one of the bellhousing bolt holes and put a large curved lever in the flywheel teeth and use the bolt you put in as the levering point.

Does that make sense?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Rattle gun torque will do the job.

Don't give out advice like this to someone asking for genuine advice.

Either put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and get someone to hold it or lock it against something or the preferrable option is to put a bolt through in one of the bellhousing bolt holes and put a large curved lever in the flywheel teeth and use the bolt you put in as the levering point.

Does that make sense?

This pretty much. A large flat screw-driver can sometimes work as well. Screw 2 longer bolts (use bolts that arent part of the gearbox install) and then use a pry-bar/screwdriver between the 2 bolts and into a tooth on the flywheel to stop it turning. It's a bit hard to explain on here but you should be able to work it out

Link to comment
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Don't give out advice like this to someone asking for genuine advice.

This pretty much. A large flat screw-driver can sometimes work as well. Screw 2 longer bolts (use bolts that arent part of the gearbox install) and then use a pry-bar/screwdriver between the 2 bolts and into a tooth on the flywheel to stop it turning. It's a bit hard to explain on here but you should be able to work it out

Why? Theres nothing wrong with rattle gunning it as in reality thats how the majority of people and workshops would have done it and have not had any problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

No way in hell would I do them up with a rattle gun. Important parts that you dont want to fly off and cut your legs in half should be put on by the book. 1/2" rattle guns these days are getting pretty good and seen as the flywheel bolt torque is around 145Nm, i wouldnt want to put a rattle gun that is capable of doing double that on there.

I would find it slightly more acceptable to do the engine damper bolt up with a rattle gun, but I always do this up with a torque wrench

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

how do you know its the '200Nm' setting though? Keep in mind that what the shops air pressure is will play a part in it.

All good, everyone has their own way. I was just giving my personal opinion on the matter

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Given how much care proper mechanics put into torquing things up in stages, it is hard to believe that anyone could believe that you could get a reliable torque to any proper setting with a rattle gun. How many thumps after it "stops" moving do you give it? How long after the compressor stops running is it going to give you the same torque? All the way to the point where it switches back on? Just for 3 bolts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so im guessing the torque setting is 145nm on rb20det? ill have to try the two bolt pry bar method. I cant get to my front balancer bolt without removing the radiator.. dont want to make the job more harder than it needs to be. I'll have to buy another torque wrench, mine doesnt go that high. im guessing putting in new bolts is the go? i was thinking of running arp bolts in there? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

You should be right to re-use the old ones. ARP ones arent terribly expensive as well though

142-152Nm is the torque setting (for RB26) but they should all be the same. I use the torque setting on my flywheel in my 25 anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites
doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

Don't do them up with a rattle gun. That is not good advice at all- there's a specific torque for bolts (especially critical ones) for a reason, and the flywheel is one of those places you want to it the right way. Re-using the bolts should be ok (providing in good condition), recommend using locktite though. I will come around this weekend with a proper torque wrench and give you a hand to do them up properly if needed, pm me if that'll help you. Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kip
      Kakimoto Exhaust - What Do I Have?

      By Kip · Posted

      Been poking around on the new to me car. I've determined that I have a Kakimoto exhaust from at least the downpipe back (I haven't confirmed the downpipe yet). It has a catalytic converter. Other than the company branding on the exhaust tip, I can only find one other marking. Behind the cat and under the car is a plate that has the numbers "NF307FP" and "M11111". Unfortunately, the Kakimoto website is written in Japanese and my browser won't translate it. I found that Nengun sells the brand, but my exhaust doesn't look like their current offering. They do indicate that each pipe is custom made, but I assume that's more of an inventory control thing than some sort of special, vehicle specific tuning. Anyone have a guess about what I have here? I'm getting ready to throw some dollars at tuning this car, but want to make good decisions. No reason to throw out a perfectly good exhaust system, if this thing will equal a full custom build.
    • Kip
      C34 RSFour V Build in the US

      By Kip · Posted

      Congrats on the progress. That's got to feel good to get the build done/mostly done. Now that you're this deep into it, I'm curious if you'd do it again versus finding a 5MT from the get go?
    • Rezz
      Japan Scrapbook

      By Rezz · Posted

      G.G.C. (Gibier German Cook) restaurant in Motomachi in Kobe: A tiny 2 floor restaurant that was founded in 1976. The original couple who owned/ran it retired and sold the business to a corporation who pretty much tried to keep it the same as it was.  Lots of lesser known (to me anyway) German beers available.  Venison with vegetables. The meat came from deer from Hokkaido. The chef told us that there's a whole industry around the use of all parts of the deer from the antlers to the hooves. Sure enough, directly accross the street from this restaurant is a shop that sells all manner of utensils, clothes and objet d'art all made from deer skin, bones and horns.... also owned by the same corporation. The venison was super tender 😋 Various decorations, a lot of which were quite old, no doubt from the original owners. A nice pilsner too which I'd never seen before.  It's well worth a visit but check the opening hours, they're closed on Wednesdays, only open 11:30am - 3pm on Mondays and Tuedays, 11:30am-3pm for lunch and 5pm-11:30pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-9pm on Sundays. Last order is 30mins before close.
    • Rezz
      Japan Scrapbook

      By Rezz · Posted

      Yep around 2m long or thereabouts.  I made another post in the photo diaries 17 years later lol. I swear it has not been that long!
    • acsplit
      SAU Motorkhana Saturday 18th May Avalon including entry list.

      By acsplit · Posted

      Full results via link below https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1inu1mRRO0WjV2-3vGYsjnmYggVOzmApWOby68GwPGcI/edit?usp=sharing  
×
×
  • Create New...