Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys first post for me,im new to gtr's.I have just recently bought a r33 gtr from Adam at JEM.It currently makes 343kws at the wheels on 20psi.

My plan is to switch it over to United e85 with an end goal of 400kws at the wheels.IT has a precision 6266 turbo and other supporting mods.At the moment it has an 044 intank,i was thinking of replacing this with a walbro e85 450l/ph pump and replacing 750cc injectors with some bosch id1000s.

I have asked Adam at jem and he said in theory this pump should do the job,but has not personally done it.

Your thoughts guys or experiences would be great.I will directly wired this off the battery thru a relay to get good volts to the pump.I have used the search function,but could not find an answer.

From the last page of the RB26 dyno results thread:

forged bottom end

stock cams and valve springs

metal head gasket with ARP head studs

precision 6266 0.84 T4 divided rear

3.5" dump/cat back

GFB EX50 50mm external gate

1200cc injectors with walbro e85 pump

power fc d-jetro

409rwkw @ 26psi on Caltex eflex E70, at the limit of stock cams and injectors

At 13.5v and 40 psi rail pressure it advertises 430l/ph and on 12v at 40 psi it flows 375l/ph.I plan on running a direct feed to get near 13.5 volts.So at 40psi pressure should outflow 2x 044s.I was toying with the idea of the bosch id2200cc injs.Thanks guys

Not sure on that one piggaz,i think I will go straight with the bosch id 2200cc or similar brand.Car has haltech platinum pro plug-in,should handle the big injectors ok.Thanks guys.

Have a gander at my attachment.

I wrote a pretty simple spreadsheet for calculating and comparing different fuel systems for my car. Obviously it's to suit my setup but could be easily tweaked.

I have highlighted all of the cells you need to update then see sheet 2 and graph's it all out.

IE set the highlighted cell to your desired base fuel pressure. write out your hp and boost based off a close dyno sheet. in my case when it was tuned for bp98. and then fill in the injector flows and corresponding pressures.

with this info it tells me that my injectors are too small for me to convert over to E85 and keep my same HP. unless I either run a 70PSI base pressure or go about an 80% duty.

fuel calcs.zip

thanks ss8 gohan,will go with the e85 450l/ph pump.Still tossing up on the injectors.Tuner thinks 1000cc ids will do,but a lot of guys on here think the 2000cc are the go.Most suppliers will warrant the 1000cc with e85 but not the 2000cc,Will do some more research.Thanks all,for ideas and tips.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...