Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was hoping that someone can help me.

I want to get some info on the re4ro3a auto (came standard in 300zx z32 & Nissan patrols)

The r33 rb25det auto is a re4ro1a. The 2 autos are the some ,but in the re4ro3a everything is bigger (so I've been told). The skyline bellhousing will bolt up & so on.

The person I spoke to about this auto said that, he can modify the valve body to 4gaers on the shifter, manual shift, & also a trans brake if I wanted

How many other mods is there for this auto ,is there any big pans for it

Has anyone pushed this auto to its limits, at what hp

Anything that anyone knows or heard about this auto, would be very helpful

Thank you for looking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431723-auto-mods-for-big-hp/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've been looking on the Internet all morning, and I found a website that said ,

Re4ro1a was used for medium duty vehicles (r33 skyline, steaga)

Re4ro3a was used for heavy duty vehicles (300zx twin turbo, Nissan patrol gq-gu)

I also found the gear ratios for both (same ratios) ,& the 300zx had 3.692 diff gears ,which suits me

I would not be surprised if there are few to no physical differences between those two transmissions. There might be slight differences in the width or material spec of friction materials, or there might be line pressure differences designed to make it better able to haul around a heavier car.

Remember that in terms of manual transmissions, the big VG30 manuals are essentially the same gearbox as the big RB manuals. They're all about the same strength. It's trivial things that change, like overall gearing, the bellhousing, shifter location.

If you phone MV automatics in Adelaide they will help out.

Have you got a phone number / website

I also found out that they hold about 4litres, the guts of the auto is a bit wider & longer. The pump is also bigger

Folly built they can hold about 1000hp (so I've been told)

Have you got a phone number / website

I also found out that they hold about 4litres, the guts of the auto is a bit wider & longer. The pump is also bigger

Folly built they can hold about 1000hp (so I've been told)

try 14 litres and your closer mate.

Let us know how you go with the auto

What you doing about the converter (standard , hi stall)

Will be around a 3500 stall. Mz will re work the std converter to what will suit your purpose included in that price

Auto was sent off today it will be back in 3 weeks to be installed and then some fun. Full manual valve body etc push button overdrive and push button lockup clutch for highway driv

So theres no automation on the lockup clutch at all? If you stop the car you stall?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...