Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and girls, anyone have any ideas what could be causing my stagea to run rough? Sounds like it's running on 5 but tacho says it idles steady, it still makes boost but slowly, feels like it goes good once the boost kicks in. Just changed the plugs and coilpacks and all the plugs look the same, no fouling etc. Wondering if it could be fuel filter or boost leak or afms, or fpr? Just had fuel pump done too. Also has a bit of backfire on gear changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432543-help-rb26-sounds-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

  • 1 month later...

Ok guys, replaced the plugs, replaced the packs with splitfires and just put in a new coilpack loom, still sounds like it's missing and smells rich plus is very laggy and won't make full boost, could it be an injector?

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

Did you do this? Or just replaced stuff for fun? Narrowing it down to a cylinder would have helped you determine if it was a coil pretty easily.

I replaced things that seem to cause common problems so I don't have to worry about it again for a while. It used to come and go so I had ruled out mechanical problems as I would think damaged piston or cylinder would be more permanent.

If it is intermittent there is a good chance one or both of the AFM's needs re-soldering, there is a 'how to' around on fixing them if you do a search.

It could be an injector too, would be a good idea to get them cleaned and flow tested just to rule them out.

I was just pointing out that trying to diagnose such problems over the net is near futile. It always turns out to be something either very obvious or nothing that anyone thought of.

So tempted to put that in my signature.
  • Like 1

When I bought it they did a compression test and has only done about 5000k since then so no I haven't plus cause it was come and go I didn't think it could be that. Happened around when the alarm went in, imobiliser issue maybe?

Wouldn't surprise me if its an afm.

Another quick thing to do would be check over all of the I/C piping and joiners for a leak and vacuum lines too

Edited by Even_Flow

Pull injector plugs one by one until one doesn't make it any worse than it is already. Once you find the cylinder that is missing check the plugs/coils/loom for that cylinder.

Could even use a screwdriver to the ear to find which one is missing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...