Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bang for buck, Unitig AC/DC 200 amp. You will need to buy a foot pedal for it though, and 15A GPO.

I have used one daily for about 5 years, good unit. Only once did it let me down, a circuit board blew out, but the replacement part was on the shelf in Sydney. I just can't justify buying a Miller for 5k when this one does a similar job for 1/4 the price.

  • 1 month later...

I have the same unitig as scotty, had it about a year now with no issues except for the gas reg that comes with it was leaking slighlty but they swapped it over for me on the spot. i got my sparky mate to install a 15 amp power point as is required for any high amperage equipment. to run the 15 amp line and power point cost me about 150 dollars. I havn't had to push 200 amos through it yet however i have put together some mild steel at about 140 amps for about 2 hours and it seemd fine, no noticable increase in temp of the machine etc. if your a beginer, then dont let all the knobs scare you, once you read uup about them you can adjust them to what ecer you need. most are simple stuff like post gas flow time etc which are not critical to typical jobs however help to finish up welds. youll get it after a short time. many years ago i used a large and expensive cig weld machine when i did nascars and in all seriousness the only difference i care to mention is the size and weight of these new inverter technology units. i have it mounted on the wall just above a bench and mostly use ot to do my own exhausts and cooler piping etc. It seemed to be the best value for money at the time.

A few times, 6 track days I think. The auto box doesn't like it much. :/

yeah gotta get a manual in there!

Would there be any stores that stock uni tig 200s in in sydney?

been to the track much scotty?

im in melbourne and i got mine from a mob called united tools

try this, http://www.unitedtools.com.au/new-south-wales/

Silverwater welding supplies have them also total tools (who had a big sale recently and u could have saved a bit) and also Hare and Fobes (also had a sale on).

I purchased a cigweld acdc machine when total tools had 30% off everything in store a while ago and have found it to be a good machine. Cost me a little less then what the normal price of the unimig machine was going for.

  • 3 weeks later...

It still has the same model number - search Smootharc Advance MIG 200C (for some reason SAU won't let me paste links, or even copy / paste into my posts :domokun:). Not sure whether they've changed the internals - for that kind of price rise, I'd hope so. Mine was on special when I bought it. I paid $750, and it's currently advertised at $1160-ish. I've seen them advertised for over $1200.

Top unit though (for a MIG). It turns ordinary welders like me into freakin geniuses.

I did a course a while ago and we were able to use the new lincon welders. It was able to automatically adjust wire speed and amps to the metal thickness. Bloody amazing machine and made u look like a pro. They were into the thousands though and more for large shops I think.

Not the token tools one however when researching for my machine I narrowed it down to the unimig machines and the cigweld. Silverwater Welding highly recommend the Unimig machine and have had very little trouble with them. I only bought the cigweld machine because of the deal I got.

I just bought a token tools Alupulse 200D Deano, haven't had much time to weld, but the stuff i have done has come out great (and i haven't TIG welded for 25 years). Got the pedal with it but haven't used it yet but everything else is quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...