Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

May take you up on that Mitch. Base on the youtube vids I've seen and the documentation it looks pretty straight forward. I'm just making up the external map and wideband interface looms now.

I can't imagine Haltech would have left any surprises for me. Out of the box it should control the fuel pump speed and send the correct TPS signals to the Attessa right? Ive seen lots of other people have issues with these two simple things... Edit: Other ecu's of course... Wolf/vipec etc...

Edited by GTRNUR

High/low fuel pump control is hard set at 5% throttle opening (from memory). The TPS follower for the ATTESA 100% works as per factory, as does the injection duty signal to the MFD.

The pre-loaded base map should be enough for you to get started with. Just make sure you load the calibration for your MAP sensor, set your TPS limits, enter your injector characteristics and deadtimes and away you go. Set base timing (i like to lock the CAS all the way clockwise) by enabling the ignition lock and adjusting the trigger angle. Dont forget to set the engine capacity, and if you're running an ethanol blend of fuel without a flex sensor, deduct ~33% from your injection flow rate to allow for the fuel density difference. :cheers:

Not necessary, it just connects to Inj1. The MFD does the rest.

If you were able to program up an 7th injector channel, it would need to be configured to have the same output pulse width as all the other injectors. Also, you would need to put a load on the output, or a pull up resistor to +12v so the MFD would be able to read the variable PWM square wave.

Sorry no dyno time yet.

The Haltech is in now. It idles and revs. Didn't get a chance to drive it anywhere though, nor do anything but do the basic setup on the weekend.

With any luck I can take a day or two off later this week and spend some time on the phone with Mitch.

AI tell me my surge tank is still 2+ weeks away as well.

  • 2 months later...

More changes are still in the works. I've replaced the entire fuel system again after being talked into going down the E85 flex fuel path. So bigger injectors, more pumps, bigger fuel lines, external surge tank and bags of fittings...

It takes for ever to get parts up here too. Pay for overnight and it arrives 3+ days later.

I've yet to source and wire in a flex fuel sensor, and I've got locate a fuel cooler to mount behind the diff too.

The interesting news is that I hope to be getting Mercury Motorsports to come to Cairns to do the final tune and setup of the car. If anyone can get it to produce a good final result, I think they are certainly capable of it.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...