Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, first post on the forum. I live in California and I'm trying to get some info for a project of mine. I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I'm attempting to install an RB25det NEO engine and 5 speed transmission into. I am having a heck of a time finding a "HowTo" for wiring a NEO engine. I do not want to pay to have a harness build as I'm quite capable, provided I have the info I need to complete the job. I have been scouring the internet looking for any sort of well written how to on the topic. While I was on another forum I saw a member there who had received lots of help from a member of this forum. The member heres name is Simon, but I do not know how to get in contact with him. I'd like to speak with him to see if he would be willing to share some info with me. Below is a link to the other forum post I'm speaking about and in it you will find the reference to Simon. Simon is not the only person I'd be willing to take Info from, ANYONE with the information that is willing to share with me would be greatly appreciated. I am just looking for a basic (These are the wires you will need, ie: color/pin number, to apply switched power, ground, constant power ect) type of help. I appreciate everyones time and hope to have this project on he road soon, given your help.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-r34-rb25det-neo-f3-plug-pin-wire-colors-still-confused-t542427.html

Thanks again.

Thank you. I'm digging through the many many pages as we speak, trying to find the info. I'll also try contacting simon-s14 to see if he can help, if he is infact the simon the forum was speaking of.

I looked through that post and it is so long that I cant seem to find the info I'm looking for. But it made for good reading nonetheless. I also sent Simon-s14 a message. I hope to hear from him when he gets a chance. I'm going to go back through that 62 page posting looking for the info I need for my project in the mean time.

If it was my car, for the money its costs (in cal) a proffesionally made custom wiring loom would be the quickest / easiest solution

Might even be one "on the shelf"

To be honest, if I knew of a shop here in Cali that would do it for a reasonable price I'd consider going that route. The car is currently my daily driver so the less down time the better. I don't want to pull the stock engine until I'm confident that the RB is ready to drop in. The sooner the RB is ready the happier I'll be, however paying some shop (No matter how great a job they do, not knocking) $600 for a harness when I could make the same harness myself with a little info, is out of the question. I'm not against doing work the hard way (with wrenches and a soldering iron rather then with my wallet) in fact I prefer it because it gives me a since of accomplishment. But in the end, the car just needs to run and if there is a shop semi local that can do it for a reasonable price I'd happily give them my money. I'm still hopeful that Simon will chime in or I.M. me and spread a little knowledge my direction. I'll keep searching in the mean time, hopefully I'll be able to figure this out sooner rather than later.

Hello again everyone. Sorry for the delay, I have been working late these past couple days and have been unable to work on the wiring lately. So I found the post you listed (Thanks for posting it again anyway) and I have been trying to follow DJRIFT's instructions however I'm having a heck of a time. The first two wires he listed (The white/green and the white/black) were located, however I can not find the 3rd wire he lists to power up. He says to locate a Yellow/red wire just inside the firewall grommet and power it up via a 50amp fuse link. Well the only yellow/red wire I can find is a small gauge wire and when tracing it, it traces back to pin #20, which is (According to the wiring schematic) as the crank signal. In DJRIFT's how-to, he later says to power up pin 20 with switched power. So the wire I wound is obviously NOT the wire he is referring to when he says to power it up via a 50amp fuse link. After this hiccup, I'm worried that I may run into further issues. No offense to mr DJRIFT, perhaps the car he worked on was wired with different colors then my engine. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks ahead of time for the help.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...