Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I see a couple of OE turbos now coming out with electronic wastegates, how long before we see these coming out for aftermarket turbos?

I would think these might be an advantage to:

Eliminate boost creep.

Holding them shut during high back pressure (problem with my turbo)

Boost tuning to maximise drivability

Ability to run multiple boost levels

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435097-electronic-internal-wastegates/
Share on other sites

they have their ups and downs.

have seen some fail.

eg, codes and such, have to replace turbo, not just actuator.

would be good on smaller turbos that arnt pushed extremely hard.

but the units that get alot of heat, I dare say, would affect the plastics and electronics.

They are becoming increasingly commonplace, in internal, external and variable vane/geometry turbos. Later model diesels are even using electronically controlled vacuum operated actuators.

isn't that the same as what most of us with a boost controller run?

Nothing beats a pressure actuated diaphragm and spring, it is a simple and robust design that will outlast any electronic stepper motor or similar.

The only hassle with current actuators is there is usually no way of plumbing boost pressure into the other end, to help the spring hold the wastegate shut. This is why external gates are so much better atm.

actually these electronically controlled acutators...have been used for power valves aka exhaust bypass and most of them fail within 6 mths... electronics and heat dont mix very well... as such i dont expect these to last either. best is still mechanical ones with simple spring and using vacuum IMO.

If they used a huge pushrod to separate the electronics to the valve I don't see why it would fail due to heat etc, anyone got some diagrams and further reading about them?

yes but they would also need to heat shield the electronics as well...then it may be fine

but if its somewhere around the engine bay... wouldnt it still get heat soaked?

yes but they would also need to heat shield the electronics as well...then it may be fine

but if its somewhere around the engine bay... wouldnt it still get heat soaked?

There is lots of electronics in the engine bay, all you need is the actuator anyway, then you can put the actual controller in the cabin like a boost controller.

^^ Pre-spooled turbo using a 3 phase RC helicopter motor. I thought of that 5 years ago, even let Tao know. :P

Most of my ideas and designs get made eventually, even if i don't have the time and coin to complete them. Hopefully it flows through to the common people, because I want one.

Nothing beats a pressure actuated diaphragm and spring, it is a simple and robust design that will outlast any electronic stepper motor or similar.

The only hassle with current actuators is there is usually no way of plumbing boost pressure into the other end, to help the spring hold the wastegate shut. This is why external gates are so much better atm.

Actually due to googling IWG's to try and sort my own boost drop issue I ran into quite a few dual port IWG's that do this, but ended up not getting one as I didn't see how it'd help with my (assumed) backpressure problem as the spring inside them all was quite weak.

Would be good for boost control in general though, but I'd imagine most people either don't have backpressure problems or gravitate to just using the tried and true method of EWG's

The spring inside them doesn't have to be strong, as the boost pressure helps hold it shut. I haven't tried one (dual port internal gate actuator) but it should work better than an ewg setup without the top port being used.

wouldnt you need some sort of pitch controll or almost constantly venting valve when it plays generator so your not pumping air into a glosed throttle body? when that opens even a little bit the revs would spike up as you already have constant preasure in the intake, more so than supercharger, seems like that would play some odd games, ok in an f1 car but stop start traffic?

The spring inside them doesn't have to be strong, as the boost pressure helps hold it shut. I haven't tried one (dual port internal gate actuator) but it should work better than an ewg setup without the top port being used.

I could see it as control, but if I had say 30 psi on either side of the spring it'd be all well and good.. until back pressure pushes the flap opens and it pulls on the 7psi spring, I could never really find out what would happen then.. I assumed with 30psi on both sides the backpressure would act as though there's a 7psi spring in it.

My laymans thoughts were, if the flap pushed by backpressure can open a 20psi spring with the boost line disconnected (i.e... free boosting with no vac line connected at all I make 17-18psi) I figured this would still occur with a dual port.

Unless I only connected one port, and had 0 psi opening the flap, 30 psi holding it shut, AND spring pressure vs backpressure, but that just didn't seem like a great way to control boost vs just buying a single port actuator head with a 30 psi spring in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...