Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend is putting one on his 2530 at the moment.

What we have found is the hall sensor when fitted with the supplied bracket fouls on the teeth on the balancer so we had to space the sensor down. (not ideal)

The supplied power steer pump pulley wont fit on the pump shaft 1mm to tight and it wont line up with the belt, we have tried Rb30,26 and 25 brackets.

The 26 one lines up but the shaft on the pump is splined not smooth like the 25 one.

Calling Ross or whoever now runs the company today to see why we have these issues.

I can assure these things work, it was designed on our car by Unigroup Engineering and Ross. I will admit that we only run the bottom half as its a 26 in an S14 and the CAS Sensor Ross designed wont fit in our car as its simply too bulky

We had around 500rpm worth of incorreect singnals in the upper rpm range and this fixed it straight away. It works a charm with the Link G4 that we run in the car.

I got one on my car as Ross has sponsored it to me. I can back them up they work a treat car now runs and tunes much smoother. More accurate at the higher rpm rev ranges around 10000+rpm, the car is punching out approx. 1200HP no dramas at all. I am running dual triggers one on Crankshaft and Camshaft with a Vipec V88 ECU, so far so good, I have only used it for one drag meet so far which was Brisbane Jamboree. So I haven't had much time to properly test it. But I did notice a fair few GTR's at WTAC where running these setup's so they must be doing something right.

Wow, huge difference. Surely that would have to aid longevity to remove the torsional vibrations that would cause.

What is the whole kit worth? Anyone know if you can buy just the sensors and sensor wheel? As in upgrade an existing Ross balancer.

I got the balancer trigger wheel sensor and braket and convertor box to change the signal to Nissan for $2000, and didn't use the box as I changed the computer to one that reads directly off the sensor, I believe the balancer that has the trigger wheel is different to the normal/older style one, google trigger wheel rb26 there are heaps of different setups avalible, I'm currently looking for a 24-1 tooth wheel to replace the 36-2

Please write down ross's finding or yours. sound not so good by your review :(

Dont get me wrong, I know the system works. It just isnt fitting.

Ross have sent an adaptor for the power steering issue, should get here by the end of the week.

would this work with a haltech without the expensive 600$ blackbox? At this point, my car is well-moded.. I just want to make it run smoother/safer etc.

Indeed it will. If you have a Pro Plugin go with the 12 tooth crank wheel. No converter box required.

Yeah E11 will decode almost any trigger setup, as will the Platinum Sport range.

As the Pro Plugins are designed as a plug and play application, they were locked to the standard trigger on the designated vehicle unless you requested specific firmware from Haltech. 24+1 is now a user selectable option across almost all Pro Plugin ECU's where the trigger type is a popular modification for that vehicle.

Here's the option as found in the R34 GTT Pro Plugin setup screen....

post-16325-0-66968500-1384909411_thumb.jpg

Wow, huge difference. Surely that would have to aid longevity to remove the torsional vibrations that would cause.

What is the whole kit worth? Anyone know if you can buy just the sensors and sensor wheel? As in upgrade an existing Ross balancer.

Ross upgraded our balancer when they designed the kit so i believe it should be a simple upgrade. It was a current balancer and was yet to be fitted to the engine though so dont know if this changes things

I guess you would need to call Ross and ask if they are all able to be upgraded

I have a few graphs below taken off my own car.

Nissan%20CAS.JPG

Timing graph with the OEM CAS

Crank%20Trigger.JPG

Ross trigger kit. That's using the 34 - 2 timing wheel.

Piggaz, that really does show how reliable and rock solid it can be. It makes a big difference to timing values when your signals are a lot cleaner and makes it that much safer to make decent power ;)

Edited by ido09s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...