Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend is putting one on his 2530 at the moment.

What we have found is the hall sensor when fitted with the supplied bracket fouls on the teeth on the balancer so we had to space the sensor down. (not ideal)

The supplied power steer pump pulley wont fit on the pump shaft 1mm to tight and it wont line up with the belt, we have tried Rb30,26 and 25 brackets.

The 26 one lines up but the shaft on the pump is splined not smooth like the 25 one.

Calling Ross or whoever now runs the company today to see why we have these issues.

I can assure these things work, it was designed on our car by Unigroup Engineering and Ross. I will admit that we only run the bottom half as its a 26 in an S14 and the CAS Sensor Ross designed wont fit in our car as its simply too bulky

We had around 500rpm worth of incorreect singnals in the upper rpm range and this fixed it straight away. It works a charm with the Link G4 that we run in the car.

I got one on my car as Ross has sponsored it to me. I can back them up they work a treat car now runs and tunes much smoother. More accurate at the higher rpm rev ranges around 10000+rpm, the car is punching out approx. 1200HP no dramas at all. I am running dual triggers one on Crankshaft and Camshaft with a Vipec V88 ECU, so far so good, I have only used it for one drag meet so far which was Brisbane Jamboree. So I haven't had much time to properly test it. But I did notice a fair few GTR's at WTAC where running these setup's so they must be doing something right.

Wow, huge difference. Surely that would have to aid longevity to remove the torsional vibrations that would cause.

What is the whole kit worth? Anyone know if you can buy just the sensors and sensor wheel? As in upgrade an existing Ross balancer.

I got the balancer trigger wheel sensor and braket and convertor box to change the signal to Nissan for $2000, and didn't use the box as I changed the computer to one that reads directly off the sensor, I believe the balancer that has the trigger wheel is different to the normal/older style one, google trigger wheel rb26 there are heaps of different setups avalible, I'm currently looking for a 24-1 tooth wheel to replace the 36-2

Please write down ross's finding or yours. sound not so good by your review :(

Dont get me wrong, I know the system works. It just isnt fitting.

Ross have sent an adaptor for the power steering issue, should get here by the end of the week.

would this work with a haltech without the expensive 600$ blackbox? At this point, my car is well-moded.. I just want to make it run smoother/safer etc.

Indeed it will. If you have a Pro Plugin go with the 12 tooth crank wheel. No converter box required.

Yeah E11 will decode almost any trigger setup, as will the Platinum Sport range.

As the Pro Plugins are designed as a plug and play application, they were locked to the standard trigger on the designated vehicle unless you requested specific firmware from Haltech. 24+1 is now a user selectable option across almost all Pro Plugin ECU's where the trigger type is a popular modification for that vehicle.

Here's the option as found in the R34 GTT Pro Plugin setup screen....

post-16325-0-66968500-1384909411_thumb.jpg

Wow, huge difference. Surely that would have to aid longevity to remove the torsional vibrations that would cause.

What is the whole kit worth? Anyone know if you can buy just the sensors and sensor wheel? As in upgrade an existing Ross balancer.

Ross upgraded our balancer when they designed the kit so i believe it should be a simple upgrade. It was a current balancer and was yet to be fitted to the engine though so dont know if this changes things

I guess you would need to call Ross and ask if they are all able to be upgraded

I have a few graphs below taken off my own car.

Nissan%20CAS.JPG

Timing graph with the OEM CAS

Crank%20Trigger.JPG

Ross trigger kit. That's using the 34 - 2 timing wheel.

Piggaz, that really does show how reliable and rock solid it can be. It makes a big difference to timing values when your signals are a lot cleaner and makes it that much safer to make decent power ;)

Edited by ido09s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...