Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the market for a new ecu for a 2j motor.

Noticed haltech have a new ecu coming out towards early next year but unsure if I can be bothered waiting for it.

I have noticed ViPEC have a new i88 ecu which looks quite good.

Anyone have any feedback on this particular ECU ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435341-new-vi-pec-i88-ecu/
Share on other sites

Vipec is basically a Link and i have been running Links for years.

Awesome ECU. Numerous motorsport options which are all unlocked, they only require a small cost motor sport harness be purchased, options of up to a 7 bar map sensor, runs well with the Ross Balancers crank trigger system

I see no reason to not use one ;)

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

Does this new Vipec have built in Knock sensing capabilities?

I heard they might be coming out with this a while ago, would be the only benefit over my link G4 that I have at the moment.

Although link have realeased G4+ (Not in plug-in version yet from what I've seen) so it might end up being a similar thing

Apparently, unsure how good or how different it is from the previous model.

http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/i88

ndividual Cylinder Knock control, with support for two sensors. Knock control is user definable with flexible settings to allow precise knock control adjustable by ignition angle

Yeah that is literally the only thing I dont like about the G4 is that there is no onboard knock sensing.

But I suppose it wont be hard to update in the future. Hopefully it can use the stock knock sensors. I kept these on the engine even though the Link doesnt support them, in the off chance that they would work later on

E85 - built in knock sensor :D

another happy G4 customer - first flex fuel conversion, first non-HKS electronics V-Cam control - pretty stout piece of kit :)

can't go wrong with the link/vipec's

G4 is brilliant, just depends on how many items you want to run off it. Flex fuel, crank trigger, wide band, oil pressure, fuel pressure... You run out of inputs very quickly.

I used to run a vipec. trying to sell it and upgrade to a haltech. Better tech/product support.... that and there's only 1 vipec dealer out here lol and his tunes take me into the 10 and 9.8 AFRs...

Edited by NismoSTune

So a couple of features on this ecu that makes it a little more favorable to the haltech is the knock control and 4 temp sensor (have to add resistors to the haltech!).

However, mapping is a bit better on the haltech and i know i am able to change a voltage setting for the tacho output...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...