Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is cracking of the rear subfram a common problem for our cars? Just changed the drivers side rear wheel and noticed a massive crack, just above the driveshaft. Same on the passenger side.

Has anyone had this issue, if so, how much to replace the subframe??

Trying to get a hold of the previous owner but no luck. Will be contacting the RWC workshop asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436170-m35-cracked-rear-subframe/
Share on other sites

Dont weld it. Its the devils glue! There is nothing that sscchhdicky tape can not fix! (guido hatzis quote)

Let the baguette jokes and welding jokes begin!

Edited by Howaitonaito

Not fussed about price, the car was issued a rwc wen it clearly wasnt roadworthy. Previous owner had no idea either.

Small things werent done, cv boot and globes, was willing to let it slide because theyre easy fixes but after seeing the subframe this arvo im not even sure the workshop looked at the car.

Front pads are cactus, discs are glazed, front right cv boot is completely torn, number plate globes werent replaced AAAND the subframe is cracked.

Where do i go next? I want this all fixed, not by the workshop that issues the rwc and i dont want to pay a cent for the repairs..

Santa Claus by the sound of that. Your dreaming if you think a workshop is going to pay to do that for you.

Two options.

Weld it. The whole thing is welded together anyway.

Or

Buy one, second hand or new. Try 55400-AQ500. Sit down for the price.

It wasnt noticed. I only saw it because i had a flat in the rear. To the wheel off and its the first thing i saw.. spent all morning on the phone, just gonna swallow this bitter as f**k pill and fix it myself.

Not letting the rwc workshop touch my car again.

Trust me i spent the whole morning ringing vicroads, vacc, consumer affairs even the dodgey prick that issued the rwc. Its a shit storm waiting to happen and i really cbf dealing with it.

Its not the end of the world, swap the subframe, fix a few stupid issues get another roady bang, problem solved.

Shit happens, assholes cause it!!

But you must bring the assholes down like a bag of $hit! I wouldn't let the shop that issued the rwc get away with it. I love conflict and causing it. Bring the phucker down I say!

Oh back on to topic, get a replacement frame from Scott, I think he's swapped out quite a few so he'll be able to offer you tips and tricks too.

Its much easier said than done, if the last few years has taught me anything its that karma does catch up with you lol.. hopefuly he stubs his toe real bad!!

I love conflict to but its my car and i want it on the road asap, dealing with it like many have said isnt gonna achieve that.

Yep got onto the m35 bible with legs (scott), with any luck its sorted soon.

whats wrong with welding the cracks if its don't properly? The rest of the subframe has welds all over it!!!

I think i've had this agument before.........

+1. A quality weld job will be as good as a new one.

Any pictures of the cracks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...