Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is cracking of the rear subfram a common problem for our cars? Just changed the drivers side rear wheel and noticed a massive crack, just above the driveshaft. Same on the passenger side.

Has anyone had this issue, if so, how much to replace the subframe??

Trying to get a hold of the previous owner but no luck. Will be contacting the RWC workshop asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436170-m35-cracked-rear-subframe/
Share on other sites

Dont weld it. Its the devils glue! There is nothing that sscchhdicky tape can not fix! (guido hatzis quote)

Let the baguette jokes and welding jokes begin!

Edited by Howaitonaito

Not fussed about price, the car was issued a rwc wen it clearly wasnt roadworthy. Previous owner had no idea either.

Small things werent done, cv boot and globes, was willing to let it slide because theyre easy fixes but after seeing the subframe this arvo im not even sure the workshop looked at the car.

Front pads are cactus, discs are glazed, front right cv boot is completely torn, number plate globes werent replaced AAAND the subframe is cracked.

Where do i go next? I want this all fixed, not by the workshop that issues the rwc and i dont want to pay a cent for the repairs..

Santa Claus by the sound of that. Your dreaming if you think a workshop is going to pay to do that for you.

Two options.

Weld it. The whole thing is welded together anyway.

Or

Buy one, second hand or new. Try 55400-AQ500. Sit down for the price.

It wasnt noticed. I only saw it because i had a flat in the rear. To the wheel off and its the first thing i saw.. spent all morning on the phone, just gonna swallow this bitter as f**k pill and fix it myself.

Not letting the rwc workshop touch my car again.

Trust me i spent the whole morning ringing vicroads, vacc, consumer affairs even the dodgey prick that issued the rwc. Its a shit storm waiting to happen and i really cbf dealing with it.

Its not the end of the world, swap the subframe, fix a few stupid issues get another roady bang, problem solved.

Shit happens, assholes cause it!!

But you must bring the assholes down like a bag of $hit! I wouldn't let the shop that issued the rwc get away with it. I love conflict and causing it. Bring the phucker down I say!

Oh back on to topic, get a replacement frame from Scott, I think he's swapped out quite a few so he'll be able to offer you tips and tricks too.

Its much easier said than done, if the last few years has taught me anything its that karma does catch up with you lol.. hopefuly he stubs his toe real bad!!

I love conflict to but its my car and i want it on the road asap, dealing with it like many have said isnt gonna achieve that.

Yep got onto the m35 bible with legs (scott), with any luck its sorted soon.

whats wrong with welding the cracks if its don't properly? The rest of the subframe has welds all over it!!!

I think i've had this agument before.........

+1. A quality weld job will be as good as a new one.

Any pictures of the cracks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...