Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The transfer case in my R32 GTR looks to have packed a sad after a track day I had on Wed.

It now screams when accelerating, I have a 4x4 controller and when I switch it to 2wd the noise goes away, I have been told it might be that I have overheated the plates, and also the bearings might be shot.

Has any rebuilt one of these before?

What parts did you need? Seals/bearings/plates etc?

Also what are the thoughts of running a transfer case oil cooler like the Aussie Spec R32s and the N1s?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Although their boxes are smooth as silk, everything I've read and heard point to these AGY being a "circuit" box and not a "drag/hillilmb/dumbshit" box. I'm trying to get their synchro gear to go in my new box but it doesn't look promising :(
  • Like 1

Cheers Guys,

I have bought a good second hand R33 box complete with transfer case (I have already got and R33 one in the car) for only $500nzd so it was a bargain (usually about three times that much in NZ)

I'll fit the transfer case to my existing gearbox as I had a few of the syncros replaced not long ago, and I know it's all good.

But I think I might rebuilt the broken one with these upgraded plates:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/161207-n01-new-tranfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html

And also run a oil cooler setup like the Aussie spec/N1 cars, I bought a full set of diff and transfer case coolers from a UK Spec R34 that I should be able to mod to fit.

I read on here somewhere that you can "just put an extra plate in" to the standard transfer and it gives them a better take up due to less clearance.

Has anyone got any experience with that? I've got a spare transfer case so if it's that straight forward I'll whack one in while it's out of the car.

I believe Racepace do this upgrade as well. They'd charge two arms and 3 legs for it however...

  • 2 weeks later...

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

  • Like 1

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

Before of after front diff?

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Before of after front diff?

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

for spirited street driving and the occasional track and strip day is it really worth doing? To do both must be serious $$

Im looking at getting a 33 GTR soon and all things being equal I don't mind tail happy and thoroughly enjoyed my GTST in this.

However is the way these aged GTR diffs/transfer cases operate unpredictable? Like a LSD's often are in GTST's where sometimes they hook up other times they don't...

I had a friend who had an older GTR and they said it was a bit unpredictable how the AWD was going to kick in and that does not sound like a good time...

I would say it's worth it, just in much nicer to push fast even on a hills run etc. Totally predictable so don't worry about that.

With or without the 4wd never 'kicks in when it wants', just sounds like a system with problems or someone that didn't know how to drive. Gotta remember it's not full time 4wd so you need to understand how/when how will do it's thing etc.

There's definitely merit in it if you're tracking your car. On the street (if you have large testes) it can be a lot of fun to hang the arse out before the front grabs but I have little doubt it would make you a lot quicker at the track to have full all wheel drive earlier. That in conjunction with a good torque split controller and you're laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...