Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The transfer case in my R32 GTR looks to have packed a sad after a track day I had on Wed.

It now screams when accelerating, I have a 4x4 controller and when I switch it to 2wd the noise goes away, I have been told it might be that I have overheated the plates, and also the bearings might be shot.

Has any rebuilt one of these before?

What parts did you need? Seals/bearings/plates etc?

Also what are the thoughts of running a transfer case oil cooler like the Aussie Spec R32s and the N1s?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Although their boxes are smooth as silk, everything I've read and heard point to these AGY being a "circuit" box and not a "drag/hillilmb/dumbshit" box. I'm trying to get their synchro gear to go in my new box but it doesn't look promising :(
  • Like 1

Cheers Guys,

I have bought a good second hand R33 box complete with transfer case (I have already got and R33 one in the car) for only $500nzd so it was a bargain (usually about three times that much in NZ)

I'll fit the transfer case to my existing gearbox as I had a few of the syncros replaced not long ago, and I know it's all good.

But I think I might rebuilt the broken one with these upgraded plates:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/161207-n01-new-tranfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html

And also run a oil cooler setup like the Aussie spec/N1 cars, I bought a full set of diff and transfer case coolers from a UK Spec R34 that I should be able to mod to fit.

I read on here somewhere that you can "just put an extra plate in" to the standard transfer and it gives them a better take up due to less clearance.

Has anyone got any experience with that? I've got a spare transfer case so if it's that straight forward I'll whack one in while it's out of the car.

I believe Racepace do this upgrade as well. They'd charge two arms and 3 legs for it however...

  • 2 weeks later...

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

  • Like 1

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

Before of after front diff?

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Before of after front diff?

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

for spirited street driving and the occasional track and strip day is it really worth doing? To do both must be serious $$

Im looking at getting a 33 GTR soon and all things being equal I don't mind tail happy and thoroughly enjoyed my GTST in this.

However is the way these aged GTR diffs/transfer cases operate unpredictable? Like a LSD's often are in GTST's where sometimes they hook up other times they don't...

I had a friend who had an older GTR and they said it was a bit unpredictable how the AWD was going to kick in and that does not sound like a good time...

I would say it's worth it, just in much nicer to push fast even on a hills run etc. Totally predictable so don't worry about that.

With or without the 4wd never 'kicks in when it wants', just sounds like a system with problems or someone that didn't know how to drive. Gotta remember it's not full time 4wd so you need to understand how/when how will do it's thing etc.

There's definitely merit in it if you're tracking your car. On the street (if you have large testes) it can be a lot of fun to hang the arse out before the front grabs but I have little doubt it would make you a lot quicker at the track to have full all wheel drive earlier. That in conjunction with a good torque split controller and you're laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...