Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a brae hi mount manifold which pricewise is similar to 6boost but the construction and gains ive had cant be compared to cheap stuff you can buy under 1000 so I personally wouldnt go any of the cheaper stuff unless your on a budget and performance gains from it arent that much of a big deal.

Track work pushes manifolds to the limits, I would prefer the factory cast one, with factory heat shields personally, and then externally gate the turbo off the housing..

Just don't go too small for turbo housing, it will cause high egt's which no manifold will take for long... Ethanol (e85) will help with longevity.

Cheers guys... might save up and do it right the first time. Brae hi mounts? Are they as good as what people claim 6boost are??

Sure are quality is extremely high and brenton is great to deal with. Here is a pic of the inside of the collectors and dyno results of before and after manifold on my setup with only change being manifold and turbo converted to ext gate boost was at same psi

post-50426-0-70856200-1388217124_thumb.jpg.post-50426-0-20564800-1388217171_thumb.jpg

Cheers guys... might save up and do it right the first time. Brae hi mounts? Are they as good as what people claim 6boost are??

<br /><br />You are building a track car, go with the proven items. Cheaping out anywhere will punish you more than it would in a street car where you can sometimes get away with it. $1200 Is nothing
  • Like 1

<br /><br />You are building a track car, go with the proven items. Cheaping out anywhere will punish you more than it would in a street car where you can sometimes get away with it. $1200 Is nothing

Yer very true...

Also thanks for the pics. Very impressive dyno result just by changing manifold! A little shocked by it actually.

Sure are quality is extremely high and brenton is great to deal with. Here is a pic of the inside of the collectors and dyno results of before and after manifold on my setup with only change being manifold and turbo converted to ext gate boost was at same psi

attachicon.gifdyno2.JPG.attachicon.gifIMG_3108.JPG

Any pics on car mate? or just in hand?

Hi all

Been a good read so far and as I am in the process if looking for a manifold I thought I would ask a few questions.

Now I know that the 6 boost that Kyle makes are a great unit $1260 and the Brae unit $1100 + also looks the goods but there are other manifolds out there that are cheaper that also look the goods but not much in the way of feedback.

Out of interest sake has any one had experiences with

At performance manifolds

D1 stable manifolds

Sinco custom manifolds

Hybrid performance manifolds

Cheers

Edited by FJ RB25

I would just go with proven results.

We went 6 Boost split with twin gates, why risk buying something for $1000 when for $200 more you have a life time warranty that it wont crack with a brand name known to be efficent and used on many big powered builds?

Hell if you want ot save a buck, heaps of others out there, have a google and enjoy reading about welds cracking......

Pay once, do the job once and forget about it.

GTRPSI

I'm hearing what your saying an I agree,

However if everyone purchased 6 boost and that was it then where would we be besides being happy and crack free?

There are other quality products out there and I was really interested in peoples experiences with them, if they are any good etc etc

We all know 6 boost are the best

Thank you Kiwi for the info I will check out your post

Cheers

Edited by FJ RB25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...