Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Johnny how did you go with the barbagallo membership and cams licence situation? Can you confirm what the go is between the 2 types of track day?
Also keen to hear how you and you're automobile are going on the track too ;-)

Anyone else coming out tomorrow?

I'm all geared up and ready to go - will be there from start to finish (9 - 4ish) if all goes well.

Hey Brendan,

Yeah all good - wasnt denied entry and that event requires CAMs license

As what bryce has said, i believe the 2 types of track days are to separate the track cars (unregoed - quick lap times) vs street cars (regoed)

Other than a slight high water temp which was expected in the hot weather, everything went fine, oil temp was lower than what i expected considering i didn't have an oil cooler

Bryce was there was well and he was having water temp issues too

Hope you have fun tomorrow as forecast doesnt seem as hot as what we had on Wed

  • Like 1

Yeah I do :) how funny :) wat is it my clone?? Wat colour was the r33?

So many similarities it's not funny

What wheels do you run?

He tows his r33 there, white gtst with gtr wing, car spits flames (like your dp), runs xxr wheels

Hey Brendan,

Yeah all good - wasnt denied entry and that event requires CAMs license

As what bryce has said, i believe the 2 types of track days are to separate the track cars (unregoed - quick lap times) vs street cars (regoed)

Other than a slight high water temp which was expected in the hot weather, everything went fine, oil temp was lower than what i expected considering i didn't have an oil cooler

Bryce was there was well and he was having water temp issues too

Hope you have fun tomorrow as forecast doesnt seem as hot as what we had on Wed

So just back on the topic of memberships - if we want to do the Tuning Days, I'm assuming we require the L2 Membership (Racing General Membership)?

Where did you guys see that it was cheaper than last year? I had that membership last year but looks as though its still $285 on the website?

  • Like 1

Hey fellas

First off; the white R33 you guys are talking about is Laurence. He is a champ so make yourselves known to him next time and tell him I pointed you in his direction ;-) He usually runs between 3 cars with his brother - they also have a couple of Ford escorts that they bring out. He's been doing tuning days since way back when us Blake boys started a few years ago and drives very well. He just doesn't poor the money in for big hp ... yet haha

I was a bloody happy man to be out on track on the Friday again. The blue monster was insane and I managed to get some good track time in during the morning sessions before a broken brake rotor stopped my day short. For those interested in watching a vid, you can hear me putting down a few hard laps via my youtube channel ... Type in "SCR34MER444" and select the video Barbagallo Tuning Day 21/02/2014

If you listen carefully, you can actually clearly hear my R34 around the entire track from pit lane ;-)

There's still a few more changes I wanted to make with the oil system before I'll be comfortable with the reliability of the new RB25/30 so that will put me out of action again for a month or 2 but looking forward to being back out there again ASAP.

For those interested, I have also finally resolved the confusing membership level topic with Barbagallo management so please quote the below for anyone else with questions and hopefully this clears things up a bit;

  • Regardless of whether you are going to do "Your car our track" days or "race tuning days", you must have a CAMS Level 2 Speed licence
  • You can basically choose which membership and track day type you want to do for the year (one or the other)
  • The "your car our track" day (requires Level 4 WASCC membership) is for those who are either new to the track and/or are not running confident, consistent lap times like the race series drivers.
  • The "race tuning day" (requires level 2 WASCC membership) is mainly for CAMS log-booked race cars AND for street registered cars with confident drivers who are not going to get in the way of any race series competitors who are testing/practising
  • As a general rule of thumb, I would say if you have past track experience and know the track protocol well (i.e. what all the track safety lights mean, let quicker cars through and keep out of the way when necessary, entering and leaving pit lane correctly etc), then you should be doing "race tuning days" and not "your car our track" days. For example, if it's the first time you have been on the track and you are driving a stock standard Suzuki Swift then you should definitely get a L4 WASCC membership and only do "your car our track"
  • However, don't let the above put you off getting a WASCC L2 membership and joining us on the race tuning days just because your car might not be making big hp with big brakes etc. Obviously there are going to be various cars doing various lap times no matter what track day you are doing. It's all just about having the confidence and awareness of quicker cars that are out there with you so that we aren't getting in the way of others too much or causing a safety hazard.
  • Depending on the turn out for the "race tuning days", the 20 minute sessions are split in to 3 categories - "CAMS log-booked race cars", "open wheelers", and "Street registered cars"
  • My old man and I have both signed up L2 membership and will be doing "race tuning days" this year, and I would encourage most of the guys who I have met on here to be doing the same to get the best track time 'bang for your buck'.
  • For more info, visit www.wascc.com.au and check out the membership page or contact the race office during the weekly office hours on 9306 8022

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...