Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have had my r34 sitting for about a week due to not driving it any more.

First time taking it for a drive and I cannot get into the car with either the central locking or the key itself.

Just can't get more then half way with the key on both doors. Worked fine a week ago with central locking.

But now with that I only get one beep and that's to arm the alarm. No two beeps for unlocking.

I don't hear any locking mechanisms going at all

Boot lock turns and works.

Also

I have had a new battery fitted recently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439505-r34-gtt-wont-open/
Share on other sites

That's freaky.

The key should still work but trip the Alarm. At least it does with mine.

There is no way the key should not work in the door locks - not possible (as it is physical).

When you say new battery. Do you mean in the Fob or the car battery?

I have replaced both previously with no issues.

Sounds to me like the frequency has changed for the unlock motion :(

Edit: By the way I have a 34 GTT also

Edited by Sinista32

Try spraying some lubricant into the lock barrel with the key partly in and give it a try. Dirt and crap gets into them and if haven't been used in a while can make them hard to turn.

Tried the WD40 in the barrel with no luck. I have had this car for a while, so this is completely out of the ordinary.

Will try the battery tomorrow. Any ideas of how to get the bonnet up without getting access to the car?

  • 5 years later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but this is happening to me right now. And it's got me stumped. 

I bought my r34 gtt end of last year and only have opened the car using the central locking. 

I had a flat battery in the car after leaving it over the Xmas and new yrs holidays. The car wouldn't unlock using central locking. So automatically I went to try open the car door using the key, and both doors won't unlock using the key. Tried the boot and it opened fine. So I called the previous owner and asked if he had problems unlocking the doors with the key, in which he replied he's had flat battery before and the door unlocked fine with the key... 

Anyway, I ended up unlatching the hood and put jumper leads on the battery to another car to unlock the gtt with central locking remote. 

But the key still won't turn on both doors... 

Any ideas? 

(I don't have a spare key) 

Le sigh.

If the key won't turn the barrel, then either they don't go together, or the mechanisms in the doors are jammed. The first is 1000000% more likely than that both doors have f**ked up in the same way. Nevertheless, you could take the door cards off, and check out the locking rods, clips, pivots and so on and spray some lithium grease on them and see what's happening. In fact, if you take the cards off and then use the internal lock mechanisms (near the inner door handle) you should be able to see if the only possible thing that could be wrong is that the lock barrels won't turn.

Then you get a locksmith.

And FFS. You've had the car 2 years and haven't attempted to get a spare key?!!!

50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You've had the car 2 years

 

2 hours ago, leej84 said:

bought my r34 gtt end of last year


3 weeks? 
 

the old called the previous owner.... I wouldn’t answer, deal done 1 2 warranty.

Yes, I've had the car for about 3 weeks and went on holidays during Xmas and new yrs. 

The previous owner has actually been very helpful and there's no reason for him to lie. I don't expect him to fix the problem anyway. 

I guess I'll open up the door cards to see what's going on.

Being a Skyline (ie cop bait and thieving prick bait) there is a very high possibility that it has been broken into at some point.  The owner possibly replaced the barrels with a new (or used) set or they re-coded the door barrels without re-coding the whole car (which they should do).

Whip the door trims off, pull the locks out and drop them to the locksmith to be matched to the key or replaced and recoded if they are stuffed.  I agree with GTSBoy that it's unlikely BOTH sides are worn out as the passenger side door lock would be very infrequently (if ever) used, even more so on a car equipped with remote central locking!

Good luck!

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...