Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Resprays


surfm8
 Share

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, i have finally spent enough money on the engine (for the moment) and am starting to look more into the cosmetic side of things. Living in brisbane and working on an island off gladstone for 28 days at a time leaves me with alot of time to do research and hunt for places but it is hard to pick a good one. Does anyone have a place that they would recommend in brisbane or close to there that does resprays and would be able to fix the scratches on the body kit?

Cheers Mitch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day guys, i have finally spent enough money on the engine (for the moment) and am starting to look more into the cosmetic side of things. Living in brisbane and working on an island off gladstone for 28 days at a time leaves me with alot of time to do research and hunt for places but it is hard to pick a good one. Does anyone have a place that they would recommend in brisbane or close to there that does resprays and would be able to fix the scratches on the body kit?

Cheers Mitch

Respraying a body kit can be done by pretty much anywhere if your paint is standard. Very easy job and should not cost much. Or are you looking at a complete respray?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have u considered plastidip?

i was thinking of doing that with the rims later down the track but not the entire car no

From experience not cameron's bodyworks unless you want to pay for it to be done again by someone else, so there's one less for you to look at

haha righto, cool, i havent heard of them but thanks for the warning mate!

Respraying a body kit can be done by pretty much anywhere if your paint is standard. Very easy job and should not cost much. Or are you looking at a complete respray?

theres a few small dents on the steel and the body kit is abit scratched abit here and there so im thinking a full going over and touching up of the whole car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought about the price of a re-spray.

And i thought about how many tools and how much paint i could buy for half that.

So DIY of course, and i get to keep the tools. (that includes an awesome compressor)

Body work can take a lot of hours if its done well.

So you have to think about the cost per hour vs what you earn per hour.

Youtube has a lot of good teachers for all the things you will need to do.

For me my car is big boys Lego, i spend as much time messing with it as i do driving it.

So i guess it also depends on how much you like doing that stuff, a paint job is a BIG job for DIY.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought about the price of a re-spray.

And i thought about how many tools and how much paint i could buy for half that.

So DIY of course, and i get to keep the tools. (that includes an awesome compressor)

Body work can take a lot of hours if its done well.

So you have to think about the cost per hour vs what you earn per hour.

Youtube has a lot of good teachers for all the things you will need to do.

For me my car is big boys Lego, i spend as much time messing with it as i do driving it.

So i guess it also depends on how much you like doing that stuff, a paint job is a BIG job for DIY.

ive got an aircompressor at home, 45L or something like that but i dont think that it would cut the mustard haha. i did contemplate doing it myself only things are that i dont have anywhere at home enclosed enough to do a good job without the car being coated in dirt. im the same with the boys toys thing too, alot of the gear that gets done to the car mainly the cosmetic stuff i do all myself. with me working away and only being back at a week at a time it would be ideal for me to drop it off to a shop and leave it with them for the 4 weeks that i am away giving them plenty of time to sort it out and then pick it up when i get back.

Edited by surfm8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly i wouldnt recommend doing a respray yourself. It is a huge job and you really have to commit. I wouldn't expect a full respray to be more than 8k if you are going a standard colour. I think i was quoted around 10-12k from the most expensive painted in Canberra to do mine again and i have custom paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.
    • Hi all, so I bought a very low kms 2019 Q60s in Nov 2022 and have been driving it stock for 17 months. The power from the VR30DETT has been a little scary as these cars did not come with a LSD. Although the ECU does well with compensating the lack of LSD by using automatic braking on different wheels when there is lost of traction etc, it does not really give me much confidence to push the car harder. Further to that, the car feels quite boaty especially around sharper corners or roundabouts - it would seem like the wheels are lifting on one side. These engines are also very prone to heat soak as the heat exchanger is tiny. I felt this during the heat wave in WA over summer even in normal driving. Gear shifting in the Q60 is also something that I hated - it's quite harsh at low speeds especially in traffic.  I recently purchased a set of f&r sway bars, rear diff brace and a heat exchanger from Z1 in US. Here are my thoughts 1) Rear diff brace - no more wheel hop when accelerating quickly. wheel spin still present but manageable comparing to before. Gear shifts are now smoother, you can still tell its shifting etc but you dont feel the harshness. I would highly recommend this mod, and it should still be on sale at Z1 at the moment. 2) Sway bar - there are 2 settings for this F - 114%/165% increase in stiffness over stock and R - 138%/214% increase in stiffness over stock. Currently I am on the stiffer settings. The car feels very planted. Due to the weather over here I have not been able to test if i need to reduce the stiffness. So far it's much more comfortable to drive over stock as you dont feel like your car is lifting up and in fast turns you can control the car a lot better while turning left and right in quick succession.  3) HX - the Z1 HX has a much higher capacity and surface area (up to 200% or something). Again with the cooler weather it's a little hard to tell. I went with the Z1 HX due to the price, size and colour (black). You can't see the HX through the front bumper. There is a cheaper brand but it was smaller and the rest were more expensive which i didnt think was worth the extra since I won't track this car much at all. All 3 mods were easy to install, all plug and play. Note of caution, the front bar needed to come off for the HX to be installed.  
    • A is the HICAS CU.  As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?   Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else. Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so  you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.
    • They didn't. This is their comments; I'm not sure why they don't have the OEM specs. 
×
×
  • Create New...