Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title suggests I have a R33 Nissan Skyline Series 1 R33 Gts-t

The car has been sitting for a long time and now I get it running again there's a god aweful deap sounding rattle/Whine coming from where the exhaust cams CAS is.

I know this has been brought us SOOOO many times before and I have read something like 30-40 posts about the issue and there is a lot of sudgestions but not 1 had a result.

Well a helpful one anyway.

There are a lot of ideas on what it MIGHT be but it's like no one ever gets the issue sorted.

At first it sounds like the timing cover is rubbing NOPE.

People have suggested timing belt NOPE

Idler pullies guides and so on NOPE

This is a link to a vid of my noise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440271-r33-rb25det-casexhaust-timing-noise/
Share on other sites

Do you have a spare CAS? I had problems with mine ages ago when I did the timing belt. Didnt make a noise with the timing cover off but did with it on. For ages I thought it was just the timing cover vibrating. Turned out to be the CAS. I pulled it off and it was really hard to turn it by hand. So maybe pull it off and feel if the bearing feels rough/hard to turn

I thought that it might be throwing the bearing inside the CAS unit but it was a mongrel to remove but when I did it was spinning really freely. Flick it in between my 2 fingers like I'm trying to click my fingers and it spins. Make a little bit of a wierd noise thou.

I will try using the one off if my mates R33 S2!and see how that goes.

I will keep you posted

Do you have the washers for the CAS seal in there? They are needed or you will have CAS issues. The seal for the CAS sits in the timing cover and has 3 thick washers with groves in them fro the seal to sit in

Just remember that without these washers you can have issues

  • Like 1

Just an update.

The noise for some reason is different in the vid.

The noise is there at idle and stays there till around 1500rpm then disappears to where it is barely noticeable. But comes back when it returned back to idle.

  • 1 month later...

did you check if the washers are there?

Do you have the washers for the CAS seal in there? They are needed or you will have CAS issues. The seal for the CAS sits in the timing cover and has 3 thick washers with groves in them fro the seal to sit in

Just remember that without these washers you can have issues

I've asked the same question twice........

The thick washers NEED to be there.

Did you replace it with a new or a second hand CAS? If its second hand, whos to say it isnt semi stuffed as well?

Bit of an up date.

I called Nissan and the bloke told me that when new or working properly there is supposed to be SOME resistance when it is turned by Hand. To little and it's buggered. To much and it's buggered.

I swapped CAS with one off if a friends car that I know worked good and has no noise.

But no difference.

But I replaced it anyway. And the noise has died down.

Now I have a new issue.

The engine sounds like it's missing.

I have replaced the plugs. New spill fire coils.

But no change. Gunna start a new post about it.

I wont even bother anymore. Myself and at least one other person have told you what the problem most likely is. And you continue to ignore it. I cant be bothered anymore with people that don't read/listen

Some resistance. That's funny.

Ignoring the correct and sensible advice is even funnier. Let us know when this case starts making noise.

And I have to ask, with all this messing with the cas,did you set the timing correctly each time?

I have tried everything you guys have suggested.

AND NOTHING HAS WORKED.

Also you do not have to recalibrate your timing every time you remove your CAS Nissan said as I asked the question. They said NO because of the way the Keyway is set up and the toothing of the shaft it can only go on one way.

I'm sorry for not spending every minute on here but if I did how would I be able to try what people suggest.

I'm the one having issues and getting a handful of suggestions (That I do appreciate ) and I'm the one that has try physically do what you suggest. But if your going to act like a phsycotic wives carrying on because I don't answer your text right away then please don't bother posting.

Well that's just wrong. Have you noticed the massive slots the cas bolts go through?

Nissan don't give a shit about you or your car. They want to sell and service new cars,not help guys with old cars. You are wasting their time calling them,and that is reflected by their advice given to you.

If you think you line it up that good by eye good luck to you. You are lucky you havn't pinged the engine to death yet.

And finally, pull your head in bud, take a little time to show some respect to the people who are helping you out. The same question was asked multiple times and you didn't answer it, that's your fault for not mentioning you tried it (which I am assuming).

As above, its pretty obvioust that you do need to check timing every time you remove and re-install the CAS. You can mark the CAS and timing cover and try and bolt it up tight in the same spot, but it may not be 100%

And seriously, get over yourself. I tried to help you, and I think if you look back you will find my first 2 posts were as helpful as I could be with the information I had. It was because I asked you about the spacers/washers behind the CAS 3 times with no response (And you still havent actually said that you have checked they are there)

So I will explain to you why they are important. If they are not there, the CAS bottoms out and pushes the shaft etc into the bearings, causing extra wear which will lead ot bearing failure and NOISE.

Touch cas, re time

Loosen a few bolts, retime

Marked out cas place in same spot, retime

Replaced cas, retime

Do anything to cas, retime

Running aftermarket ecu? Lock timing and retime

And yes, listen to jiffo - he knows more than Nissan

I've asked the same question twice........

The thick washers NEED to be there.

Did you replace it with a new or a second hand CAS? If its second hand, whos to say it isnt semi stuffed as well?

I have checked the washers and there there.

I have also checked the clearances between the CAS and the cam it's self and with the 2 gaskets and washers Inplace I have 2.5mm clearance.

I do agree with you saying maybe the second hand one could be buggered aswell.

I have been told of a place that can just replace the bearing.

I have put up an update to this post aswell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...