Jump to content
SAU Community

Coilover Issue

karter

By karter,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

karter Enthusiast

karter

Posted
Posted

I have a 2001 ARX fitted with BC coilovers. On Saturday I hit a pot hole in a roadworks zone - only doing about 40kmph. There was a loud crashing noise and something was clearly loose in the rear. We had a look today and found that the passenger side coilover top mount had torn out. Wondering if it has happened to anyone else, and what is the best way to repair it, and who best to do it - I'm in Canberra. Grateful for any advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/
Share on other sites
karter Enthusiast

karter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

please excuse my ignorance - it's our first Stagea - which is the separate piece? At least one of the two bolts at the top of the shock absorber unit has sheared off and the plate that it is attached to has separated from the chassis.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7223618
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wow. That looks like the bolt has pulled through the mount.

If that is the case I would be putting a decent washer and or reinforcing plate under the bolt, but that shouldn't have been able to happen in the first place.

I wonder if they were installed wrong?

Edited by superben
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7224102
Share on other sites
Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Never seen that before :O must have been a bit of play on the bottom for it to pull out the top on one side? As Ben said, it will need to be welded and then strengthen it by welding 2 washers on top and bottom side. Do the other side to keep it simetrical.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7224130
Share on other sites
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Looks like metal fatigue around the stud has allowed it to break a section clean out of the body; there's no rust there.

I reckon the car has copped a hit in the wheel, and the shock has borne the brunt of the impact. You can see the stress cracks that have propagated around the stud. You can also see where the metal is stretched around the other stud.

I'd be looking for evidence of subframe removal, or rear arm removal; those components would have been badly damaged if it has been hit (or slid into a gutter etc).

You are going to need to get in from above; weld in a reinforcing plate with a pair of captive studs, I wouldn't just tack up the sheetmetal & put a washer in there.

That is going to be a pain, and you are going to want to find someone who is experienced with welding & engineering (like a hot rod or custom car body workshop), and you will be paying for that. I doubt a normal panel shop will even touch that repair.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7225360
Share on other sites
karter Enthusiast

karter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the info - car was on the hoist today - it is not rusted and there is no sign of damage to the sub frame, or indications that it has been removed - no marks on the wheels and it hasn't had a hit in my ownership - except the pot hole the other day - getting at it from above will be a real challenge - the panel that needs to be removed to access it is bolted and welded. Looks like it will have to be done from underneath.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7225793
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
karter Enthusiast

karter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Car is back on the road - shock mounts plated and welded by M&A Engineering in Mitchell ACT - ended up doing both sides because the other side was also cracked - they didn't think it happened because the shock units weren't installed correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7236510
Share on other sites
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Car is back on the road - shock mounts plated and welded by M&A Engineering in Mitchell ACT - ended up doing both sides because the other side was also cracked - they didn't think it happened because the shock units weren't installed correctly.

Great to hear mate!

If you don't mind my asking; what did they charge you to do the repair?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7236575
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Good you found a decent fabricator to repair it, but I have seen many Stagea's and none have ever had that issue. The shocks were installed too short, it's the only way it could pull the stud through, as the spring tension is working against it. Hopefully it doesn't happen again...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/#findComment-7236694
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...