Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats why i went with the D514A along with that if the 585 gets too hot they go to safe mode. or so I read.

To summarise the way I understand it;

- D514A are powerful and safe, D585s are powerful (guessing probably more than D514A) but can fire early if you run too much dwell, that is, over 4 ms. Firing early "can lead to major engine damage".

- Genuine coils (AC Delco or Delphi) are more powerful than generics.

I'd guess you'd want maximum dwell at maximum torque, because that's when its going to be hardest to ignite the mixture.

D514A cant use the LS2RB/ MojoPerformance

gotta make a different one
http://forums.nicoclub.com/post6627473.html#p6627473

Last question I promise... Are you using the www.LS2RB.com coil bracket?
If so, did you have any problems fitting the D514A coil? as I believe that bracket is designed to fit the D585 coil

Thanks mate, I've been in touch with Rick from Mojo Performance and he has informed me that the stock Nissan Dwell setting is around 2.5ms. So I will be fine to run the D585 coil without any risk of premature firing with the standard Power FC settings.

Although you can get a better spark by increasing the dwell slightly, at 2.5ms I will still get better performance than stock or Splitfire coils, so no need to mess with it.

  • 4 months later...

Finally got to install my Mojo Performance GM LS2 Coil RB26 Kit and here is my Dwell Settings. Is my setting too safe?

I switched from Splitfire to LS2 Coils seems like the rev is faster and more responsive

post-112082-0-21462300-1460939897_thumb.jpg

Edited by etang789

For the love of your engine check the base timing, I did the swap from Splitfires to LS2 truck coils with 3.5ms dwell time and the timing of the coils moved advancing timing by 15deg which lifted the head and made 4 pistons catch the bores, have now gone back to splitfires

For the love of your engine check the base timing, I did the swap from Splitfires to LS2 truck coils with 3.5ms dwell time and the timing of the coils moved advancing timing by 15deg which lifted the head and made 4 pistons catch the bores, have now gone back to splitfires

So you mean the D585s right? That's some whacky shit. Maybe another reason to stick with the lower power D514a's (assuming the don't do the same thing).

Did you notice any weirdness under 4ms? Maybe this is just the known "D585s go nuts over 4ms dwell" thing.

So you mean the D585s right? That's some whacky shit. Maybe another reason to stick with the lower power D514a's (assuming the don't do the same thing).

Did you notice any weirdness under 4ms? Maybe this is just the known "D585s go nuts over 4ms dwell" thing.

Yeah D585s, the dwell was set to 3.5ms and at that it advanced timing 15deg, which was tuned around but then they started moving the timing around randomly

I went the D585 because they are COP and much neater conversion then anything else, and now that shit went bad I am finding mine isn't an isolated case and actually becoming a common occurrence with these "smart" coils, info I couldn't find when I researched it before going the setup

It is like they where somehow firing on the rising edge instead off falling edge when they should have been

I am now looking at Audi R8 coils to get the spark I need to run 30psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...