Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello about a year ago i had one of my big bearings go . I had them all replaced and a good condition second hand crank shaft installed . All was fine until a couple of weeks ago when my car started to have a miss when i really put my foot down but it would go back to normal about ten seconds after. But then i was just driving normally oneday and it suddenly started to miss permanantely . i changed spark plugs and it was still there i played with coil packs found out the noise of the engine would stay the same with number 6 plug . so changed front coil with back and it still stayed the same so it wasnt coilpack. At this stage i couldnt figure it out so i took it to a mechanic. He beleives that the piston has hit the spark plug and thinks its a big end bearing gone again. The cars oil pressure was fine and had no knock from the motor or flashing dash lights like last time . So im just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem. or has a better idea of what could be going on?

If it is another bearing there must be something wrong with my motor . im only running stock boost . Mechanicsaid i either get a second hand bottom end or just get new bearings. rb30 bottom end could be an idea too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440753-piston-hit-number-6-spark-plug/
Share on other sites

Why not try unplugging number 6 injector? That would be the obvious next step for me.

I don't understand how the rod could stretch that much to hit the plug. Even if it did, the problem would not have been intermittent in the first place.

I have seen pistons hit the head, and it was making a fair noise by that stage. To hit the plug you would have to be running a longer plug than recommended. My suggestion, try another mechanic.

could be hundreds of things before that mate.

coil parck harness could be stuffed on no 6.

soark plug could be cross threaded

head gasket broken, rings gone, head cracked.

a missfire can pe a pita to diagnose.

but if the piston had hit the plug youd know about it....

Yes but BCPR6ES or BKR6EYA or XYZ123AB-C???

And funnily enough all the other letters mean something also. But no one cares....

http://www.ngk.de/fileadmin/templates/Dokumente/EN/downloads_not_used_in_download_area/ngk_zuendkerzen_code_en.pdf

Pull the plug, use a bore scope and have a look around inside.

IF you used the correct length plugs there is no way the piston would close the plug gap, the sides of the piston would hit the head first and you would hear that from a mile away.

Im wondering if you dropped a valve guide in there.....bore scope will soon find out....

Something hit your plug to close it and i highly doubt it was a piston.

There is always a possibility that the last person to fit the plug dropped it off the socket as they were fitting the plug down the hole and it closed the gap considerably, these things can happen when people are careless, ive seen this in the past on a number of engines where they didnt have the rubber sleeve to hold the plug into the socket in good condition and the plug just slides off and drops down into the head closing the gap.

Anyone who has this happen should get the plug out and recheck the gap before putting it back in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...