Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau Vic 2014 Motorsport Championship Round 3 - Sandown Saturday 12Th April - Be Quick


Recommended Posts

So seems wrx posted up entries for their April Sandown track day today.

and there are currently 5 spots left!!

so get in quick.

http://wrx.com.au/Default.aspx?pageId=1540753&eventId=873540&EventViewMode=EventDetails

Looks like they have allocated some to the super karts and Porsche club so there a very limited number left!

See you there

M

Looks like they have allocated some to the super karts and Porsche club so there a very limited number left!

See you there

M

There was only 40 spots available via WRX form when it went up.

Even less spots left now too, 3 at this point

Now this is new territory! Leroy really appreciated the post yesterday, enabled me to make a detour home(to enter) before going back out for the night.

Any chance they will be putting up an open/visible reserves list, similar to DECA?

Also wish their site defaulted the tick box to put peoples name up on the entry list, not sure that many people would opt out.

I need to book in my Son's birthday party for 12-13th, is Sandown definitely Sat 12th? WRX sup regs don't help, they state Saturday 17th of August 2013???

20 car sessions at Sandown are a bit of a joke when you have people that don't know how to use mirrors, let alone with 140 cars.

The Alfa round we did last year was 5 groups with 100 cars. Got 5x 10min sessions from memory. Another 40 cars, shit. And that's if there are no delays....

140 cars... 20 on at a time, 7 groups

Aye f**k...

SAU-Vic booked half a dozen garages yet?

richo and I have a couple.

but I would suggest ppl buzz them nowish if they want one.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...