Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thing was making better power before the ECU changed and everything else is the same except now the exhaust is better so clearly the issue is in the ECU where it be the settings or simple the tune

Clear some space in your inbox, I too tried sending you a PM

Yeh it was making better power at lower boost too (286rwkw @18-16psi) but it does drive much smoother now esp in low rpms before boost and noticeably more power/torque in low rpms too. Now 280rwkw @22-18psi it makes less power with a better exhaust and supposedly better ecu; so it can only be one thing wrong with the system, (not the ecu) need I say it, and yes dynos do read different too.

I will re visit them to get the power loss at downshifts sorted, have cleared my inbox, please try sending pm now, cheers

16kw difference? lets say 5kw could be any of the common variables that affect power on any given day..you're looking at a 11kw difference, this could be the difference in 1 or 2 degrees timing at wide open throttle.

the default Powerfc accelerate injector settings can richen up mixtures alot when you press the go pedal, they may have only been tuning wide open throttle? IMO full range torque is better than top end power any day of the week...especially on the street.

Have you thought about me while buying lube and condoms lately?

Yes, I bought the strawberry/banana flavored ones since your just so juicy. nohomo.

Anyways back on topic :ninja:

My issue was the CAS, but only because the engine got so hot to the point the block warped and the plastics around it melted. Otherwise not sure if its a usual wear and tear item

You can't 100% trust a dyno number

It's how it drives and the speed it pulls at the quarter mile is accurate

I went to latest rigoli dyno day and made 260kw was tune the week before at Unigroup 266kw

Seen a turbo civic the had a dyno sheet on the window tune by Jem and made 280 odd kw on rigolis dyno only made 224kw go figure

  • Like 1

By the looks of it, Its just bolted onto stock exhaust manifold and externally gated off rear housing. So the question is how much factory exhaust manifold can flow, and my evaluation result says 280rwkws on P98 unless excessive amount of boost.

The compressor design with huge impeller radius and plus antisurge housing makes it very un-efficient unless huge amount of boost given. In which you can not run those boost levels with a 65mm / 56mm turbine in a .63 rear.

My advise is get a proper exhaust manifold, a .82 turbine housing, a 50mm external gate. Then run heaps of boost.

My car made 280rwkw at 18psi, not 22psi, by the time it made the power after 7k rpms thats how much the boost had dropped. Will an ebc hold consistent 22psi till 7k rpms? Power might go up then but by how much is anybodys guess.

Ebc will only help to extent but if there's is too much backpressure blowing the gate open at high rpm

It's going to drop boost no matter also when the turbos out of flow it will drop but I doubt the turbos maxxed as my mate made 360kw with a 5558 on e85 sr20

A smaller wastegate may also help as there won't be as much pressure blowing on it as it's physically smaller

But those are only bandaid fixes which might only help slighty

But a larger rear housing and proper manifold is a proper fix if you want 300kw plus

I can see boost started to tapper as soon as peek was reached.

This can happen because the compressor is inefficient to feed the engine with that much of Air at given RPMs.

Or the exhaust manifold pressure is too high that blows the gate open. And when it has an external gate it means the EMP is very high.

Taken example given by Hy_RPM then it will be more likely that the turbine end is maxed.

There isn't a real lot of point of trying to hold the gate shut in this situations as it will makes the engine wants to pin. So you end up running higher boost on less timing and not alot of gain. Of course you can cure it with E85 or Q16 that marks your Ign timing closer to its peek torque output. Run a smaller gate will only increase EGT, in situations like this is very wrong.

Some thing like this is a perfectly balanced setup between induction and discharge. It is running an 38mm internal gate also:

ss2boost.jpg

SR is 4cyc engine with 8.5 compression. So it won't be copping with back pressure issues as what RB engines gets, generally makes a lot more power in a smaller turbine housing. So a .82 turbine will definitely make some changes to boost curve, and lot more power.

Yeah but your comparing yours to different setups

The other guy made the extra power from e85 and more boost and he has a more free flowing manifold and inlet plenum so can make use of the extra boost aswell

Your will be restricted by boost now as your on 98 so more boost will just ping

But waste your money elsewhere up to you

Tuner has already guided you in the right direction

There's a restriction somewhere but the cat and exhaust wasn't it as it didn't gain much once you changed them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...