Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this catch can going to be big enough for my setup welding two -12 fittings on it one in middle and one at bottom and 2 lines from yhat running to top of sump.

Its a split tank that was already on the car it has window washers and oil the other side as you can see .

post-59423-13996486240172_thumb.jpg

Fitted my greedy oil cooler on drivers side today had to do a little modification to mounting bracket because i no longer have stock intercooler ,still need to fit up all the lines I had to remove stock bovs

Now in the instructions for the kit it has trust bovs fitted the stock bovs will not fit with the cooler I yhat location seen as though im running a single turbo do I need 2 bovs ? Or just fit 1 in its place if so what type im not into the wanky bov noise .....

I got the stock bovs to fit but outlet pipe sits abit low and inner guard fouls on it cant win ha ha

post-59423-13996489765891_thumb.jpg

Is this catch can going to be big enough for my setup welding two -12 fittings on it one in middle and one at bottom and 2 lines from yhat running to top of sump.

Its a split tank that was already on the car it has window washers and oil the other side as you can see .

You only really need to drain it to the sump if you're going to be doing some circuit work. In that case two -12 breathers of the cam covers to the top of the can and either one -8 or bigger drain at the bottom of the can to the top of the sump. If you want to let the crankcase vent from the sump you can add a second line from the top of the sump to the top of the can. Even if you don't plan to do track work I'd be welding all of the extra fittings to the catch can and sump while it's apart so if the day does come where you need them it's an easy job

Also keep in mind if the car will be doing a lot of street k's the drain is going to mean more frequent oil changes due to all the condensation on short trips.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys been very busy with my new buisiness but head is complete sitting in nz ready to send to rob amd my bottom end is also complete rob is just waiting for head

With fuel setup is a 2.5 litre catch can good enough for my powrr figure with 2 bosch 044s ex and 1 internal ?

You only really need to drain it to the sump if you're going to be doing some circuit work. In that case two -12 breathers of the cam covers to the top of the can and either one -8 or bigger drain at the bottom of the can to the top of the sump. If you want to let the crankcase vent from the sump you can add a second line from the top of the sump to the top of the can. Even if you don't plan to do track work I'd be welding all of the extra fittings to the catch can and sump while it's apart so if the day does come where you need them it's an easy job

Also keep in mind if the car will be doing a lot of street k's the drain is going to mean more frequent oil changes due to all the condensation on short trips.

Rob has fitted 2 -12 fittings to sump so I can run one to bottom of catch can and one to middle of catch can and I already have my 2 -10 lines running from top of catch can to each rocker cover

  • 2 weeks later...

The size of of the surge tank will have have no impact on how much power the fuel system is capable of,it is only going to effect the surge resistance of it.

Having said that I would say it will be fine. You can get away with no surge tank depending on fuel tank level.

Can't wait to see this run soon!

Ok im noe up to the stage of doing fuel setup and new electronic gauges what are some good gauges to purchase that are well priced Im looking at removing the stock ones in the centre of the dash and replacing with new ones well 2 of them anyways

Problem with small capacity surge tanks is they heat soak quickly, my custom one is 8.5ltr and I am looking into a new bigger one as it starts to heat soak fairly quick

If not track car twin intank it with either 044s or Walbro E85 pumps and carry 1/2 tank min for track use and you won't have an issue

Breathing from the sump is ok for a street car but if you do it for a track car the catch can will quiet quickly over fill and make a mess of your engine bay, especially if you have breathers in the can it self, run a line from the bottom of the catch can to sump by all means but put a one way valve in it to allow oil in to sump but not vise versa

Better off having the return from the rail going straight back to the main tank not into the surge.

2.6ltr is fine if you do it this way, you just have to make sure the intank pump/s out flow the main pumps

That's the same sort of useage I'm doing, so no 2.6 will heat soak quiet quickly and you be pumping heated fuel into the engine, 2 x 044s will turn the fuel around a lot faster from the engine then the 1 044 intank can flush the heated fuel from the surge tank

2.6ltr is fine if you do it this way, you just have to make sure the intank pump/s out flow the main pumps

Should do as there is no pressure.

New setup will be biggest electric Weldon out of main tank to surge and a Weldon mech pump to the rail, woo.

I've got the weldon 2025 as my main and the walbro E85 as my lift, I hate the Weldon, it is the loudest farkin thing I have ever heard :(, the pump is rubber mounted the bracket that holds the pump is rubber mounted the plate that the bracket is mounted to is rubber mounted and there is a price of -12 Kevlar braided between the pump and surge tank, am going to custom a 10ltr with twin walbro E85 intanks, cause street car > race car

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I know its been a long time but progress is coming along my engine is finished at rips in nz i also have purchased a full fuel setup from rips aswell to fit in the rig

post-59423-14104316950952_thumb.jpg

post-59423-14104317092462_thumb.jpg

post-59423-1410431724146_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...