Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a complete TV setup for sale.

Comes with the HiTV Digital tuner, SpecDock(for I phone 5...can convert to Iphone4), English Language conversion, Override switch and all cabling. If you any good at wiring I can explain how to put it in or I can do it at a cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7253021
Share on other sites

Issue with tv tuners is if u change regions ypu need to retune. As car is moving (not recommended) signal strength changes and causes screen to freeze or flicker. This is based on my experience. I have recently removed my tuner and gone with a sony double din dvd player ($349).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7253329
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Has anyone actually hooked up a Raspberry Pi and been happy with the results.

Why I ask, is I have a 2005 stagea M35 with factory Nav/TV etc and connected my Raspberry Pi via the aux input at the factory TV tuner box in the rear left quarter.

I have tried two different ways to connect the Raspberry Pi, one via the analogue video output using RCA cable and 3.5 phone jack for sound out connected directly to the aux ( VTR ) input.

This gave me a good sound, but picture quality on the factory screen was fairly poor.

The other method was using HDMI output from the Raspberry Pi then via a HDMI to composite adaptor out to the aux ( VTR ) input again. Results again were much the same, good sound, but picture quality was average.

I'm using XBMC on my Raspberry Pi.

I would like to get this so the picture is of good enough quality that I can easily read the words on the screen without them being a little fussy and very small.

I guessing this may be a case of changing settings in the workings of XBMC maybe, but as of yet I have not managed to be able to change the screen resolution size to see any difference in what I see on the small car screen.

I know if I changed the screen to one that had HDMI input, that I would get a lot better screen picture, but I would think the factory screen would still give reasonable results.

Before anybody suggests taking my car to see who ever, I just wish to point out that I'm in New Zealand.

I'm happy to change any wiring, or direct link something into the factory tv tuner if that is needed.

Any help with this would be much appreciated.

Rotaman

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7413633
Share on other sites

Try setting your device to play ntsc format instead of pal that you probably have it set too. Does your screen appear also in black and white. Never had a problem getting a decent picture upto the screen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7413783
Share on other sites

The Raspberry pie outputs in NTSC anyway via the analogue output at around 640p and in HDMI mode it outputs at 1080p then via the HDMI to composite adaptor it is set to NTSC mode on the adaptor. I don't think this is a device problem. I think it is something in the settings of XBMC and I have'nt managed to work out how to change the screen resolution size so that what you see on the screen is large enough and clear enough to see.

Thats why I am looking for someone that has setup a Raspberry pi in their car using XBMC as the media centre.

Unless someone has a better Media Centre they can suggest that will work on Raspberry Pi.

Thanks

Rotaman

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7413873
Share on other sites

I don't think you're going to get it much better, unless you change the screen to one which accepts a digital input and/or can display a better resolution.

The small writing on my screen is just legible. Down scaling from HDMI to composite is really not a better idea in terms of quality.

All in all I find the TV more a novelty that comes in handy when waiting for someone or reversing, so I rarely use it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7414070
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

The sound will keep playing when the hand brake is released. It is only video that is cut. Also you will need to do more than earth the handbrake. Unless you plan on driving under 5kmph. There is a speed sensor wire to cut. It is behind the DVD rom.

The best way to remove video block is to get it done programatically.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7593829
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Yeah , not interested in tv, just had trouble with picture on my mini media box.

It was black / white and fuzzy, and I also managed to get it in Chinese so was guessing in the menus.

Set to NTSC and found english, works fine.

Had to make my own lead with Jaycar 4 pin connectors.

Shaved them a bit, glued them together, then had to hack out the socket on the tv tuner a bit too.

Got a good fit in the end.

Soldering was a bit fiddly.

Mounted it up on the rear window shelf so the remote works from the front.

Got 16Gb of music in that thing.

No more cds... :rofl2:

post-25026-0-77423800-1454389481_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-25723900-1454389494_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-58882200-1454389519_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-16445800-1454389535_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441650-tv-upgrade-m35/#findComment-7676435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...