Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

stop gettin offtopic, but I had to go thru sex ed in high school too you know... oh and I did go thru puberty myself and all so that would be a strong influence lol

its NOT midnight purple II

it IS an aftermarket paintjob

i know this for a fact if you sit that car next to RH9 you will notice the difference ill try and post pics of both the cars so you can see how far off it is

I was going to be rude, but I just don't have the energy tonight sad2.gif

RH9 (Jason's car) is Midnight Purple II.

The R34 on Parramatta Rd, and the one posted by Funky is Midnight Purple III.

R34 GTRs had TWO Midnight Purple colours FROM FACTORY... Yes, that's right... Contrary to what you seem to be so sure of, it IS a factory colour.

Here are the paint codes for BNR34:

TV2 : Bayside Blue

QM1 : White

KR4 : Sonic Silver

KV2 : Athlete Silver

GV1 : Black Pearl

AR2 : Active Red

EV1 : Lightning Yellow

LV4 : Midnight Purple II

LX0 : Midnight Purple III

WV2 : Sparkling Silver

QX1 : White Pearl

EY0 : Sillica Breath

JW0 : Millennium Jade

that colour is AWESOME!

does it look like 'cameleon' (spelling) paint to anyone else?

its a 3 tone harlequin (or chameleon depending on which brand you prefer) paint by Dupont specially mixed up for Nissan Japan. The main colours are Dark Blue, Purple and Burnt Orange in that order of spectrum.

I tried to find a supplier in japan that could get me the paint from Nissan, but they said it costs way too much, and most Dupont dealers have the combination codes so they can mix up something similar anyways cheaper than Nissan can supply to them for. Then again, this is Japanese Dupont dealers and not the crummy aussie ones.

What's my colour name?

It's like a silver with purple pearl....  It's a GT-T

Look in your engine bay for your blue Nissan Build Plate, and look for a 3 letter code and match it up to the table I posted above...

That's the table for R34 GTR, which has a few more colour choices than the GT-t, but all the GT-t colours should be there I think...

its a 3 tone harlequin (or chameleon depending on which brand you prefer) paint by Dupont specially mixed up for Nissan Japan. The main colours are Dark Blue, Purple and Burnt Orange in that order of spectrum.

I tried to find a supplier in japan that could get me the paint from Nissan, but they said it costs way too much, and most Dupont dealers have the combination codes so they can mix up something similar anyways cheaper than Nissan can supply to them for. Then again, this is Japanese Dupont dealers and not the crummy aussie ones.

Why do you have to buy dupont?????Protech in airport west have these colours...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...