Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No it will lower a the revs due to the tps still reading closed and can actually cause it to hunt at idle (provided the ecu uses the tps as a secondary load source which the falcon does)

replaced the MAP sensor and O2 sensor today, also reset the battery then took it for a drive and it drove perfectly, but then half hour later went to drive it and it was like

a pig, on partial throttle it would cut out on me, I had to pump the throttle to keep it going, seems to settle enough to drive it but super sensitive just dropping it in D.

Took it to exhaust shop and got CAT and Resonator replaced ( cat was collapsed), for the first few Km's it was jolting and playing up then just started running sweet again so I

don't know if shes fixed yet or not.

Have a new symptom which has appeared, that is when im cruising alone at 2000rpm and engine braking, it will all of a sudden drop down a gear violently like if you'd given it the beans, and also

as you are slowing down it drops the low gears in as if it was manual box , I think the car is possessed..

Items replaced so far are

-Coilpack, plugs

-Injectors

-MAP sensor

- 02 sensor

- cleaned fuel rail

-CAT and resonator

- cleaned IAC

- Sprayed manifold with carby cleaner and no reactions

ALSO- car has dual fuel and the problems happen on BOTH LPG and on 98unleaded

next is coolant sensor and Throttle position sensor and have the gearbox checked..

Edited by AngryRB

It may possibly be the tps, since it can make the gearbox do funny things. If it had a sudden spike in voltage then it would think you had floored it and make it drop back a gear.

I'm guessing this too. I remember my EL did similar things when the TPS gave up.

Sounds like your ECU is borked. Reset it again and see it what happens.

EDIT: Wait, Just read the second part :) Sounds to me like it was your ECU struggling to cope with a blocked exhaust.

Edited by Cowboy1600

I was a Ford mechanic for a few years. I've changed 6 TPS's in my time there due to a flatspot, cutting out, running rough. They tend to wear out right on the cruise spot, where it sits most of the time.

Check with a multimeter. Unplugged, check resistance from idle to WOT. If connected, probe & check voltage from idle to WOT.

In both cases of diagnosis, you'll see zero volts or infinite resistance when you hit the spot.

I was a Ford mechanic for a few years. I've changed 6 TPS's in my time there due to a flatspot, cutting out, running rough. They tend to wear out right on the cruise spot, where it sits most of the time.

Check with a multimeter. Unplugged, check resistance from idle to WOT. If connected, probe & check voltage from idle to WOT.

In both cases of diagnosis, you'll see zero volts or infinite resistance when you hit the spot.

In the Gregory's manual it says to check for voltage, I assume this is what you mean, I checked today and found the wires to the sensor give the

5volts so computer ok, the actual sensor is not giving me any voltage. Not sure if I'm doing it properly or the sensor is rooted, while connected

the manual says to back probe the middle wire which I take it means slice into it and place a probe on there and ground the other probe of multi-meter???

if so then the TPS is dead, interestingly I can start the car with it disconnected and seems to idle fine.

I swapped my other falcons TPS over and tested that too and it gives the same zero voltage reaction to the throttle, whats the chances of 2 dud

sensors in a row. hmm

The last drive of 20mins has been smooth, the car is definitely better with the replaced cat, has a lot of low down torque but will

have to see if she's still using the 20L/100kms.

Edited by AngryRB

Update- ran good today for about 30mins then pulled up at traffic lights and it had a big fit, big clouds of black smoke puffing out, had to pump the throttle just to get it to move. Dropped into autoelectrician who hooked up his scan tool, and no fault codes come up, TPS is working, leads tested and good,

managed to get it home with it filling the street with black smoke, pulled into driveway and its idling smooth again,

when I have it in neutral and increase the revs slowly its smooth til 2000rpm where it bogs down and misses badly, at 3000rpm its really trying hard not to go further.

Anyone have any more suggestions, note on both LPG and Petrol it does this, for some reason it pours the fuel in but there's no fault codes..

I bet your fuel pressure regulator has a hole in the diaphragm and is sucking in extra fuel under vacuum. Remove the vacuum line from the reg as the car is running and I bet you fuel pours out. As a mechanic, I've seen this several times on Falcons and the symptoms are exactly as you describe. Also, I've seen gas systems that keep the fuel pump running, even when switched to run on LPG, (they just cut the signal to the injectors) so the rail would still be pressurised and the hole in the fuel reg diaphragm would still be sucking in more fuel.

It seems that way because the symptoms change with engine conditions. i.e. engine temperature and manifold vacuum. e.g. You lift your foot off the throttle to take a corner, this increases manifold vacuum, which results in more raw fuel into the manifold and as you go to take off again, nothing happens, or it stalls. The car runs okay when you first start it up cold in the morning, but gets progressively worse the more you drive it. If you flog it then it seems to 'clear up'. But go to start it again after it's been hot and there's still pressure in the rail and it runs like a dog again. After sitting idling at the lights, you go to take off and it wont rev. etc.

Simple then, either vac test the pressure reg with a vacuum pump or prime the fuel system with the vac line removed from the reg & see if fuel comes out.

Fuel will definitely still come out with the vac lone removed from reg.

Perhaps that could solve the problems, spray car with fuel, light, turn 360 and walk away...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...