Jump to content
SAU Community

Rich Running Falcon- Just After Opinions

AngryRB

By AngryRB,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ben C34
Ben C34

Fuel will definitely still come out with the vac lone removed from reg. Perhaps that could solve the problems, spray car with fuel, light, turn 360 and walk away...

Posted Images

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Fuel will definitely still come out with the vac lone removed from reg.

Perhaps that could solve the problems, spray car with fuel, light, turn 360 and walk away...

HAHAHAHA.

I think you meant 180.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I bet your fuel pressure regulator has a hole in the diaphragm and is sucking in extra fuel under vacuum. Remove the vacuum line from the reg as the car is running and I bet you fuel pours out. As a mechanic, I've seen this several times on Falcons and the symptoms are exactly as you describe. Also, I've seen gas systems that keep the fuel pump running, even when switched to run on LPG, (they just cut the signal to the injectors) so the rail would still be pressurised and the hole in the fuel reg diaphragm would still be sucking in more fuel.

This sounds spot on, the fuel pump does keep running when its switched over to LPG, when I took the manifold off to put some new injectors I found some large pools of liquid too, was still there after a few days sitting so not sure if it was fuel.

When It would start playing up was after cruising for a while and coming to a stop at traffic lights, then after flogging it for a few minutes it calmed down a bit but still rough. Im going to get a new reg to rule this out and see how it goes.

The last few days its behaved itself, ive got 15L/100kms on petrol and 17L/100kms from LPG, so its come down a bit and ive blocked the vacuum lines near the Map sensor which are the blow by return and fuel vapour lines.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was a Ford mechanic for a few years. I've changed 6 TPS's in my time there due to a flatspot, cutting out, running rough. They tend to wear out right on the cruise spot, where it sits most of the time.

Check with a multimeter. Unplugged, check resistance from idle to WOT. If connected, probe & check voltage from idle to WOT.

In both cases of diagnosis, you'll see zero volts or infinite resistance when you hit the spot.

I couldn't get any volts or resistence with my tester but autoelectrician said on his tester it was showing response to the throttle, ive bought a new TPS just incase its playing games on me, It does seem to happen at right at that cruise spot where the

throttle is hardly open.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So will next replace Coolant sensor, TPS and fuel regulator and see how it goes. If still playing up will consider an exorcist or lighting it up and pushing it off a mountain.. lol

Some pics for those interested,

post-70965-0-47117600-1399078171_thumb.jpg

These are the Map sensors, the orange Map sensor is from my other Dedicated LPG ute ( Genuine ford, made in Germany), the blackish one from the tickford ( made in Italy), not convinced the tickford one is faulty but swapped it anyway,

post-70965-0-69990800-1399078312_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRB
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ive replaced the TPS but the coolant sensor snapped off and half of its stuck in the head still, unbelieveable place to have a sensor, can't get a spanner on it cause of the way it sits.

Havnt got round to the Fuel reg yet, all these sensors are eating my $$$ up, and its been running without any black smoke or stalling for about 500km's now, so for now just waiting and see.

The engine seems to have constant tappet noise and recently noticed some noise that occurs under load hot and cold, its sounds like in the cylinders, probably the start of piston slap , took the oil cap off while it was running and seems to be a bit of blow by, wondering if the blow by return (which ive blocked) could have been messing with the map sensor which sits close to it. funny how since I

blocked the blow by return and fuel vapour return it hasn't missed a beat.

  • 3 weeks later...
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I think I finally have the answer, Someone had got mixed up the Vapour line and the Fuel return line on the fuel pump,

The vapour line has a restrictor to stop fuel from flowing to the charcoal canister, which had a few hundred ml's of fuel in it when I pulled it off, so fuel was being sucked into the manifold and pooling there , when on light throttle

the vapour was causing overfueling and stuffing up the Map sensor probably. So finally got to the bottom of it, so anyone using a shitload of fuel , check the fuel pump was plumbed up properly.

last fuel consumption was around the 11L/100km, which is a big improvement, I wonder if the return line being plumbed into the restrictor was causing higher fuel pressure in the rail too but not sure.

thanks for everyones input and help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...