Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I had to replace my calipers because the fronts were leaking badly. I got a 2nd hand set and fitted them up no problems yesterday. So today I went to bleed the brakes (using the usual two man procedure) and the rears went fine - some air came out and the new fluid came through both sides so no problem at the back. But when we tried to bleed the front left we get basically nothing. We went for ages and never got more than a little air and fluid, but no substantial amount dropped through from the resi and the pedal goes straight to the floor.

I blew air through the bleed nipple and it seems to be fine. Also tried swapping the nipple for the one on my old brakes. Removed the brake line from the caliper and get basically nothing from there either, just a bit of air and fluid but again nothing substantial. So do I have a blockage somewhere between the master and caliper? Or a problem with the master maybe? In either case what do I do about it? The old brakes seemed to work ok other than a slightly spongy pedal and the fairly obvious leaks. I expected this to be a quick job so now I'm stressed!

oh and its a non-ABS r33 gtst

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442429-cant-bleed-my-brakes/
Share on other sites

Try open and closing bleeder with pedal pressing.

Open bleeder and push down on the pedal. Close bleeder and let the pedal off. Repeat.

Hopefully the suction created when you let the pedal off with the bleeder closed will help draw fluid through.

The other alternative is finding a suction bleeder.

Yup! sounds like you've put them on correctly.

People install them with the nipples pointed down, and wonder why they can't get the air out.... ;)

The pistons moving freely within the caliper? They aren't all jammed and gummy inside?

It's hard to know if the pistons are ok really, they were pretty tough to compress but I got the brakes of someone I know so I trust his word that they were in good working order when they came off his car. Also, the fact that I can't get a good stream of fluid out of the hose when it's disconnected from the caliper suggests that the problem is before the caliper anyway?

Zebra: yes, there appears to be a bleed nipple on the side of the master. I didn't mess with it because I've never done that sort of thing before lol

Strange to be an airlock, considering he hasn't touched the master, only take off some calipers and replaced them. You didn't let the master run dry anytime?

Try going back to the rears and bleeding them again. Thought process is to make sure the piston isn't stuck within the master.

The master will have separate circuits and pistons for the front and rear brakes. It's possible for one circuit to fail while the other is fine. Also could be something simple like the piston not uncovering the port, or a blockage in the port preventing the master from filling from the reservoir (I had this on a 1960's Mazda about 20 years ago - tho I'd imagine MC design would have moved on since then).

Try to bleed the master, but you might find it needs a rebuild. Remember these brakes are around 20 years old, so even if they worked well on a car doesn't mean they aren't close to failure. To be safe I'd run a kit through all calipers, and even the master. But then again, I'm anal when it comes to brakes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...