Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys if anyone can shed some light it will be greatly appreciated.

Firstly the car is a r33 gtst rb25det

Mods

Hypergear highflow (r34 op6)

660cc injectors

040 pump

Power fc

3 inch from turbo back

Return flow cooler

Splitfires

The problem:

Basically the car has been in and out of unigroup engineering when it was first put together it made 247kw at 15psi

Had a small manifold leak so they could not push it more since fixing that and going to push more boost through it, it now only makes 220kw at 20psi but the power drops off early around 5000 rpm they suspected a restriction in exhaust or a boost leak as they retard timing to compensate for more boost but the car wont react as in the timing is not changing.

Car is hitting the dyno again tomorrow with another cas just to rule that out but cant seem to pin point the problem.

Sorry again for the essay :P

Thanks michael

  • Like 1

There are two types of OP6 high flow. Most of the recently once made this year has the updated compressor and turbine whiles which is capable of making a lot more power. The older versions usually stops making power towards the 260rwkws mark, which your first dyno run sort of makes more sense.

Getting the most out of the turbocharger, 3 inches metal induction with a good pod is a must, as well as a proper cooler and free flow exhaust.

Because as they add more boost the car creates less power

sorry i'm a bit confused...on WOT they will set timing in the load areas of the map....the ecu won't change the timing unless they are hitting a water temperature threshold. so they up the boost and you aren't getting anymore power...do you have your dyno graph? that could show a bit more. mine made 229kw with a high flow but just made no more power when we added more boost.....(we really tried)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm...here's my 2 cents.

The curve looks worse than it is due to the scale.

1. There is a big boost drop as revs rise. At 6000 to 6200rpm it is running 15-16psi. That is entirely consistent with the power level achieved. So I'd first be looking at tension on the wastegate spring. If it's adjustable I'd add 2 turns and see the result. It looks like electronic control - is the GAIN set too high?

2. I don't know the turbine/compressor size but I'm pretty sure they're not large enough to warrant a 4000rpm boost threshold. I'd mention to the tuner that they investigate the AFRs around boost threshold (and knowing at least a tiny bit about how SAU tune they'll need to richen it up a bit coming onto boost, preferably for 800rpm before too).

#1 should fix most of your power issue

#2 should fix the drivability - which is AT LEAST as important.

I'm not saying there aren't other issues going on but it doesn't look too bad considering the boost drop.

Other things to check:

1 - Is the VCT set correctly? Is it ON between approximately 1200 and 4800rpm ?

2 - Is it too lean in places? Better to err on the side of rich rather than lean.

Edited by simpletool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...