Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock. Has been proven to over 430rwkw by me so far, with a simple external gate off the turbo housing.

More important than the manifold... Which fuel will you be running?

Currently 98 but when I do the manifold and turbo will be united E85. I don't doubt that you can make it work but a standard manifold would not be ideal. Especially for faster spool up and why not. Not to mention how much extra exhaust gas needs to be flowed when running E85

Stock. Has been proven to over 430rwkw by me so far, with a simple external gate off the turbo housing.

More important than the manifold... Which fuel will you be running?

I Probably should have mentioned it's off an Rb25 s2 not a 26. Out of curiosity has your exhaust manifold been ported out?

It's your money, I know of many other parts I would rather spend the $1500 on.

Everything is a restriction to some extent, I just prefer the factory manifold to anything else I have fitted so far, including 6boost.

I Probably should have mentioned it's off an Rb25 s2 not a 26. Out of curiosity has your exhaust manifold been ported out?

No, no porting was done, just a 45mm gate off the housing.

What is so hard to believe? The turbo nozzle is 10 times smaller than the runner diameters all added up, how can the manifold be the restriction. The turbo is the obvious restricted part, but hey, go and stick a .63 rear on for 'response'...

No, no porting was done, just a 45mm gate off the housing.

What is so hard to believe? The turbo nozzle is 10 times smaller than the runner diameters all added up, how can the manifold be the restriction. The turbo is the obvious restricted part, but hey, go and stick a .63 rear on for 'response'...

I've heard the stock manifold is huge restriction and traps in a lot of heat because it's trapping so much exhaust gas and also because cast iron holds heat well. What do you mean the turbo "nozzle"?

Huge restriction that flows 430+kw?

Anything traps heat when the exhaust gasses are 1000+C. It is the way the materials deal with the heat, and how they allow expansion of the metal without cracking or warping that makes or breaks a setup.

Huge restriction that flows 430+kw?

Anything traps heat when the exhaust gasses are 1000+C. It is the way the materials deal with the heat, and how they allow expansion of the metal without cracking or warping that makes or breaks a setup.

Are we taking RB25 manifolds or RB26 manifolds? Is there a difference in flow? Maybe 26 flows heaps better?

I ran an rb22 with std exhaust mani and HKS2835 with internal gate on 310 rwkw using 20psi on e42.5 for over 2 years full boost 4000rpm - all on track did over 30 events like it fantastic setup

there are other that have done similar or better

so flow myth debunked, ethanol fuel myth debunked

std mani will do it easy all day every day

No, no porting was done, just a 45mm gate off the housing.

What is so hard to believe? The turbo nozzle is 10 times smaller than the runner diameters all added up, how can the manifold be the restriction. The turbo is the obvious restricted part, but hey, go and stick a .63 rear on for 'response'...

But its how the gases get from the exhaust valve to the turbine that also plays a big part. In the ays of E85 you tend to be able to mask a lot of things but I can tell you in the days of 98 if you wanted the most out of your RB20 or RB25 then a manifold helped. My 2c is whilst std manifolds make the power, you notic a big improvement in how the car drives and makes its power when driving it on the street or flogging its guts at the track.

My other 2c is if you can get a 6 into 2 into 1 manifold then it will work better again vs the 6boost like 6 into 1 manifolds

But its how the gases get from the exhaust valve to the turbine that also plays a big part. In the ays of E85 you tend to be able to mask a lot of things but I can tell you in the days of 98 if you wanted the most out of your RB20 or RB25 then a manifold helped. My 2c is whilst std manifolds make the power, you notic a big improvement in how the car drives and makes its power when driving it on the street or flogging its guts at the track.

My other 2c is if you can get a 6 into 2 into 1 manifold then it will work better again vs the 6boost like 6 into 1 manifolds

This was pretty much my point

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...